The space is fun and funky—a mix of early-1900s architectural details, modern furnishings, and oversize pop art—and the seasonally changing menu of updated Italian fare is creative and delicious. To start, consider the grilled octopus with fava bean tips, or, for more adventurous tastes, the shaved ox tongue with olives and horseradish crème fraiche. For a meat/fish course, how about ling cod with wilted spinach and ramp butter, or duck breast paired with soft polenta and grappa-soaked cherries? The lengthy wine list emphasizes Italian labels, but BC is ably represented. A three-course pre-theater fixed-price menu is available till 7 pm (C$39). For a light bite, join the local crowd at Uva Wine Bar inside the same hotel, which stays open till the wee hours.