Hiking in Vancouver

With its expansive landscape of mountains, inlets, alpine lakes, and approachable glaciers, as well as low-lying rivers, hills, dikes, and meadows, southwestern British Columbia is a hiker's paradise. That said, areas and trails should be approached with physical ability and stamina in mind. The North Shore Mountains, for example, may appear benign, but this is a vast and rugged territory filled with natural pitfalls and occasionally hostile wildlife, and you should exercise great caution. The Baden-Powell Trail is a roughly 48-km (30-mi) trail only for the ablest hikers; it extends the entire length of the North Shore Mountains, from Horseshoe Bay to Deep Cove, passing through both Cypress Provincial Park and Mount Seymour Provincial Park. Every year, hikers wander off clearly marked trails, or outside well-posted public areas, with tragic results. If you're heading into the mountains, hike with a companion, pack warm clothes (even in summer), and extra food and water, and leave word of your route and the time you expect to return. Remember that weather can change quickly in the mountains. You can check for a weather forecast with Environment Canada (weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca).

In addition to the Mountain Equipment Co-op listed at the head of the chapter, there are several places around town for good books, maps, and advice. International Travel Maps & Books (530 W. Broadway. 604/879-3621) publishes its own maps, and is also the local distributor for the Canada Map Office, stocking federally made topographic maps and charts of the region. Wanderlust (1929 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano. 604/739-2182) is a major supplier of goods and gear for travelers, and has a well-stocked section of maps and guidebooks.

Lighthouse Park. This 75-hectare (185-acre) wilderness park wraps around Point Atkinson and its historic lighthouse (of the same name), where Howe Sound meets Burrard Inlet in the municipality of West Vancouver. A bank of soaring granite (popular for picnicking) shapes the foreshore, while the interior is an undulating terrain of mostly Douglas fir, rich undergrowth, birds, and other wildlife. Trails, from easy to challenging, wend throughout. A trail map is downloadable at the municipal Web site. Beacon La. off Marine Dr., West Vancouver.

Capilano River Regional Park. This small but spectacular park is where you'll find the Capilano River canyon, several old-growth fir trees approaching 61 meters (200 feet), a salmon hatchery open to the public, and the Cleveland Dam, as well as 26 km (16 mi) of hiking trails. It's at the end of Capilano Park Road, off Capilano Road, North Vancouver. 604/224-5739.

Cypress Provincial Park. This 3,012-hectare (7,442-acre) park sprawls above Howe Sound, embracing the Strachan, Black, and Hollyburn mountains. On a clear day you can see Mt. Baker (in Washington State) and Vancouver Island. While the park includes a commercial ski and biking area operated by Cypress Bowl Resorts, much of the terrain is a public hiking paradise (bikes are not permitted on hiking trails). This is backcountry, though, and only experienced hikers should attempt the more remote routes, including the Baden-Powell and Howe Sound Crest trails, which traverse this mountain region. Maps and route descriptions are available on the Web site. Cypress Bowl Rd., off Hwy. 1, West Vancouver.

Grouse Grind. Vancouver's most famous, or infamous, hiking route, the Grind is a 2.9-km (1.8-mi) climb straight up Grouse Mountain. Thousands do it annually (indeed, it's so popular the name is trademarked), but climbers are advised to be in "excellent physical condition." Those that aren't will suffer (though live to tell about it); it's not for children. The route is open daily, 6:30 AM to 7:30 PM, from spring through autumn (conditions permitting). There is no charge for the climb, but you are charged a small fee (C$5) to ride down the Grouse Mountain Skyride (gondola). A round-trip ticket costs C$32.95. Eco-walks are led along the paths accessed from the Skyride. 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver. 604/980-9311 Grouse Mountain; 604/432-6200 Metro Vancouver (formerly GVRD).

Indian Arm Provincial Park. This somewhat remote region of rugged forested mountains, alpine lakes, vigorous creeks, and picturesque waterfalls lies north of Burrard Inlet (just east of Vancouver) along an 18-km (11-mi) fjord called Indian Arm. While much of the activity is on the water—there's boating, kayaking, scuba diving, and fishing—there are also excellent hiking opportunities through old-growth forest. Most trails have substantial elevation gain, and are not for the novice. Downloadable maps are available at www.bcparks.ca. The park is accessed by water in Indian Arm, or by road from Buntzen Lake in Port Moody. Seasonal.

Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve. This 5,668-hectare (14,000-acre) reserve includes 25 km (15.5 mi) of hiking trails, some steep and challenging. End of Lillooet Rd., North Vancouver. 604/432-6286.

Mount Seymour Provincial Park. Located 30 minutes by car from downtown Vancouver, this historic wilderness park of 3,508 hectares (14,683 acres) offers 14 hiking trails of varying length and difficulty. Some climb into exposed mountainside, and warm clothing—and caution—are advised. They include access to the Baden-Powell Trail, which continues northwest to Horseshoe Bay. You can also hike 3.2 km (just under 2 mi) down to Deep Cove on Indian Arm. In winter, the trails are used for snowshoeing. Good downloadable maps are available on the Web site. Mount Seymour Rd. off Seymour Pkwy., North Vancouver.

Pacific Spirit Regional Park. A 763-hectare (1,185-acre) forest, Pacific Spirit is on the Point Grey peninsula on Vancouver's west side, close to the University of British Columbia. Open year-round, dawn to dusk, it includes 54 km (33 mi) of walking and hiking trails. Some provide access to beaches on Burrard Inlet and Georgia Strait. 4915 W. 16th Ave., Point Grey. 604/224-5739.

Stanley Park. Stanley Park is well suited for moderate walking and easy hiking. The most obvious and arguably most picturesque route is the 8.8-km (5.5-mi) seawall around its perimeter, but this 1,000-acre park also offers 27 km (16.7 mi) of interior trails through the coniferous forest, including a few small patches of original forest, or old growth. The interior paths are wide and well maintained; here you'll experience something of the true rain forest and spot some of the birds and small mammals that inhabit it. An easy interior trail runs around Lost Lagoon, and a popular interior destination is Beaver Lake. You can download a trail map at the Park Board Web site. 604/257-8400.

Guided Hikes

Novice hikers and serious walkers can join guided trips or do self-guided walks of varying approach and difficulty. Grouse Mountain hosts several daily "eco-walks" along easy, meandering paths accessed from the top of the Skyride. Discussion of flora and fauna and a visit to the Refuge for Endangered Wildlife (grizzly bears) is included. They're free with admission to Grouse Mountain Skyride.

Heritage Walking Tours. The City of Vancouver provides detailed information on self-guided walking tours of Chinatown, Gastown, Yaletown, and Shaughnessy.

Rockwood Adventures. This company offers guided walks of rain forest or coastal terrain including Lighthouse Park, Lynn Canyon and Capilano Canyon, and Bowen Island in Howe Sound (including a short flight). They also offer walking tours of Vancouver's Chinatown. 604/980-7749 or 888/236-6606.