Chef-owner Scott Emerick's homage to traditional French country cooking is, interestingly enough, a modern, almost spare conglomerate of grays and whites -- much of the gray coming from unadorned concrete walls. The menu, on the other hand, is made up almost entirely of the classics. It'll be mighty difficult to resist ordering the steak frites as you watch piles of golden fries being whisked to other tables, but nothing tops the savory bouillabaisse. The roasted marrow bones appetizer, a rarity in Seattle, may be hard to stomach visually, but it makes such a wonderfully tender and salty spread that it'll be hard to go back to simply buttering your bread. Rich desserts and an excellent cheese selection ensure that you'll linger even longer. Dining at Crémant can be either be romantic or casual and jovial, depending on the night and the company you're with. The crowd is fairly mixed, with graying foodies in dress shirts sitting next to denim-clad guys who look like they just finished their barista shifts.