Bittersweet though it is, this landmark is once again the city's tallest building. Its pencil-slim silhouette, recognizable virtually worldwide, is an art deco monument to progress, a symbol for New York City, and a star in some great romantic scenes, on- and off-screen. Its cinematic résumé -- the building has appeared in more than 200 movies -- means that it remains a fixture of popular imagination and that many visitors come to relive favorite movie scenes. With luck you'll find yourself at the top of the building with Sleepless in Seattle look-alikes or even the building's own King Kong impersonator.

Built in 1931 at the peak of the skyscraper craze, this 103-story limestone giant opened after a mere 13 months of construction. The framework rose at an astonishing rate of 4 1/2 stories per week, making the Empire State Building the fastest-rising skyscraper ever built. Many floors were left completely unfinished so tenants could have them custom-designed. But the Great Depression left most of the building empty, causing critics to deem it the "Empty State Building." The popularity of the 86th-floor observation deck kept the building solvent.

Thanks to advance ticketing on the Internet, you can speed your way to the observatory on the 86th floor and avoid at least one long line.If this is your first visit, rent a headset with an audio tour from Tony, a fictional but "authentic" native New Yorker, available in eight languages. The 86th-floor observatory (1,050 feet high) is outdoors and spans the building's circumference. This is the deck to go to, to truly "see" the city. Don't be shy about going outside into the wind (even during the winter) or you'll miss half the experience. Bring quarters for the high-powered binoculars: on clear days you can see up to 80 mi. If it rains, you can view the city between the clouds and watch the rain travel sideways around the building from the shelter of the enclosed walkway. The advantage of paying the extra $15 to go to the 102nd floor is that this observatory affords an easy and less-crowded circular walk-around from which to view the city. It also feels more removed and quieter. Express tickets can be purchased for front-of-the-line admission for an extra $40.

Time your visit for early or late in the day -- morning is the least crowded time, and at night the city lights are dazzling. A good strategy is to go up just before dusk and witness nightfall.

Although some parents blanch when they discover how much it costs and lurches, the second-floor NY SKYRIDE is a favorite of the seven- and eight-year old set. The ride yields a movie, motion, and sights, rolled up into New York's only aerial virtual-tour simulator. 212/279-9777 or 888/759-7433. www.skyride.com. $18; $28 Combo SKYRIDE and observatory. Daily 10-10.

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