Astride the East River, the park, named for a German immigrant who was a prominent newspaper editor in the 19th century, is so tranquil you'd never guess you're directly above the FDR Drive -- apart from the sound of cars whizzing by below. Walk along the promenade, where you can take views of the river -- the Roosevelt Island Lighthouse is across the river; to the north are Randalls and Wards islands and the Triborough Bridge -- as well as the more immediate sight of locals pushing strollers, riding bikes, or exercising their dogs in a popular, enclosed dog run. If you're visiting with kids, there's a very worthwhile playground at the 84th Street end with climbing equipment, swings, and other diversions appropriate for toddlers and older children. If you enter the park at its 86th Street entrance or are ending up there, you'll find yourself approaching the grounds of a Federal-style wood-frame house that belies the grandeur of its name -- Gracie Mansion.

The official mayor's residence, Gracie Mansion (Carl Schurz Park, East End Ave. opposite 88th St. 212/570-4751. $7. 45-min guided tours by advance reservation only; Wed. 10-2. Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.) was built in 1799 by shipping merchant Archibald Gracie and is one of New York's oldest wooden structures. Tours of the interior -- which you must schedule in advance -- take you through its history and colorful rooms furnished over centuries and packed with American objets d'art. Nine mayors have lived here since 1942 but New York City's current mayor Michael Bloomberg isn't one of them; he chose to stay in his own 79th Street town house, though he uses this house for meetings and functions. If you exit the park at 86th Street, cross East End Avenue for a stroll through Henderson Place, a miniature historic district of 24 connected Queen Anne - style houses built in 1881 "for people of moderate means." Note the turrets marking the corner of each block, and the symmetrical roof gables, pediments, parapets, chimneys, and dormer windows.