Caesars was one of the first properties in town to create rooms so lavish that guests might actually want to spend time in them; although plenty of competitors have sprung up over the years, this expansive property with a kitschy yet sumptuous Roman theme has continued to expand and upgrade. For typically $30 to $50 more per night, you can book a Spa Deluxe Room, which has marble-and-brass bathrooms with oversize whirlpool tubs. A variety of fancier and more expensive suites are also offered, some with parlors, wet bars, and marble rotunda entryways. The expansive and opulent Augustus tower added nearly 1,000 suites in 2005, all with soaring 9-foot ceilings and a minimum of 650 square feet of space. On the tower's second floor, famed French chef Guy Savoy opened his first restaurant outside Paris. The lavish Garden of the Gods Pool Oasis -- a complex of Roman-style gardens, baths, and fitness areas anchored by the Neptune lap pool -- is one of the better pool spots in town.

The Casino. Caesars is the never-ending casino and, in recent years, one in constant transition. Two sprawling wings used to change character from one end of the property to the other, but a gradual remodeling brought most of the casino space into alignment with the faux-ancient Roman theme of the adjacent Forum Shops mall. Some of the original south casino, however, retains its 1966 intimacy, with a low ceiling and high stakes. The newer Olympic Casino wing, with its high ceiling, soaring marble columns, graceful rooftop arches, and lower limits, embraces the middle market with 5¢ and 25¢ slots. The gradual influence of Harrah's Entertainment had a positive influence on the casino's video-poker pay schedules, and Caesars ran counter to the prevailing tides when it opened a live keno lounge with hip decor and plasma TV screens to reinvent the sleepy game.

The end of the original Caesars is marked by Cleopatra's Barge, one of the last remnants from the old days, a one-of-a-kind lounge floating in an indoor pool. The Forum Casino, adjacent to the mall, was remodeled to service the Colosseum concert venue where Celine Dion performed. The gaming floor is now augmented with the Cypress Street Marketplace, a "fast casual" food court that sells dishes such as pizza and Asian noodles. The huge race and sports book was one of the first outrageously big ones and is still something to see. Wear your walking shoes and prepare to get lost in this Roman empire.

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