Side Trips from Baltimore

Side Trips from Baltimore

Not far from Baltimore, Maryland's landscape is dotted with well-preserved 18th- and 19th-century towns. Harford County's Havre de Grace, at the top of the bay, and nearby Aberdeen, with a legacy of military history, make for an ideal day trip. Historic Ellicott City, southwest of Baltimore in Howard County, is a fun place to explore, have lunch, and shop.

Havre de Grace

On the site of one of Maryland's oldest settlements is the neatly laid-out town Havre de Grace, reputedly named by the Marquis de Lafayette. This "harbor of mercy," on the Chesapeake Bay at the mouth of the Susquehanna River, was shelled and torched by the British in the War of 1812, and few structures predate that period.

Havre de Grace is about a 40-minute drive from downtown Baltimore. From downtown, take I-395 to I-95; pick up I-95 north to New York and follow it to Harford County and Havre de Grace. Route 155 off Exit 89 leads to downtown Havre de Grace.

The conical Concord Point Lighthouse is the oldest continuously operated lighthouse on the Chesapeake Bay. Built in 1827, it was restored in 1980. You can climb up 30 feet for views of the bay, the river, and the town. Concord and Lafayette Sts. at Susquehanna River. 410/939-9040. Free. Apr.-Oct., weekends 1-5

The Havre de Grace Decoy Museum, housed in a converted power plant, has 1,200 facsimiles of ducks, geese, and swans made from wood, iron, cork, papier-mâché, and plastic. Three classes -- decorative, decorative floater, and working decoys -- are represented. A festival during the first full weekend in May includes carving contests and demonstrations by retrievers. 215 Giles St. 410/939-3739. www.decoymuseum.com. $6. Mon.-Sat. 10:30-4:30, Sun. noon-4

The Ladew Topiary Gardens displays the life's work of Harvey Smith Ladew. The trees and shrubs are sculpted into geometric forms and lifelike renditions of animals such as a fox and hounds, swans, and even a seahorse. The 15 formal gardens cover 22 acres. Besides the amazing topiary displays are rose, berry, and herb gardens, and a tranquil Japanese garden with pagoda, lily ponds, and lush flowers. In summer there are special events such as concerts and polo matches. The 18th-century manor house is filled with English antiques, paintings, photographs, and fox-hunting memorabilia. The café serves lunch and light snacks. 3535 Jarrettsville Pike, 14 mi north of I-695, Monkton. 410/557-9466. www.ladewgardens.com. House and gardens $12, gardens only $8. Mid-Apr.-Oct., weekdays 8-4, weekends 10:30-5

One of the few 18th-century structures in Havre de Grace, Rodgers House (226 N. Washington St.) is a two-story redbrick Georgian town house topped by a dormered attic. The town's most historically significant building, it was the home of Admiral John Rodgers, who fired the first shot in the War of 1812. Like most of the other historic houses in Havre de Grace, it's closed to the public but still worth a drive past.

The Steppingstone Museum is a 10-acre complex of seven restored turn-of-the-20th-century farm buildings plus a replica of a canning house. Among the 12,000-plus artifacts in the collection are a horse-drawn tractor and an early gas-powered version, manual seeders and planters, and horse-drawn plows. A blacksmith, a weaver, a wood-carver, a cooper, a dairymaid, and a decoy artist regularly demonstrate their trades in the workshops. Susquehanna State Park, 461 Quaker Bottom Rd. 410/939-2299. $3. May-Sept., weekends 1-5

The Susquehanna Museum, at the southern terminal of the defunct Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal, tells the history of the canal and the people who lived and worked there. From 1839 until 1890 the canal ran 45 mi north to Wrightsville, Pennsylvania. It was a thoroughfare for mule-drawn barges loaded with iron ore, coal, and crops. The museum, in a lock tender's cottage built in 1840, is partially furnished with modest mid-century antiques that recall its period of service. Erie and Conesto Sts. 410/939-5780. www.lockhousemuseum.org. Donations accepted. Thurs.-Mon. 1-5

Susquehanna State Park, 6 mi upriver from Havre de Grace, sits on 2,500 acres. You can fish, bird-watch, hike, bike, and camp. A covered stone pavilion by the river is a good place for picnics. Rte. 155. 410/836-6735. Free. Daily 9-sunset

Aberdeen

A site for artillery testing since 1917, Aberdeen celebrates its heritage every year on Armed Forces Day (the third Saturday in May) with tank parades and firing demonstrations. The town is also the birthplace of Cal Ripken Jr., who made baseball history in 1995 by breaking Lou Gehrig's record for most consecutive games played.

Cal Ripken Stadium (873 Long Dr. 410/297-9292. www.ripkenbaseball.com) brings Single-A baseball to town with the IronBirds, an Orioles minor-league affiliate team. Owned by Cal Ripken, the team plays short-season ball every June to September in Ripken Stadium, a 5,500-seat venue complete with skyboxes. The Ripken Museum and a hotel are slated to open at the stadium in late 2006.

Ellicott City

Ellicott City was founded in 1772 by three Quaker brothers -- John, Andrew, and Joseph Ellicott. By the 1860s, Ellicott City had become one of the most prominent milling and manufacturing towns in the east. Today the town retains its historical flavor and is a pleasant place to stroll and browse the many stores and antiques shops. The Howard County Office of Tourism (410/313-1900 or 800/288-8747) offers walking tours of the town.

Ellicott City was the B&O Railroad's first stop. The Ellicott City B & O Railroad Station Museum, built in 1831, is the oldest surviving railroad terminal in America. Exhibits focus on the history of the railroad and on its role in the Civil War. Maryland Ave. and Main St. 410/461-1945. www.ecbo.org. $5. Wed.-Sun. 11-4

The Oella Mill was once just that; today it houses antiques dealers and artisans under its large roof. 840 Oella Ave. 410/465-1313