Jazz History Tour

Jazz History Tour

The Birthplace of Jazz is a banner New Orleans wears with pride, and it's hard to visit the city without seeing and hearing signs of the rich musical heritage that resonates through every street. Many of the city's popular sights concern music, but other spots important to jazz history remain unmarked and largely unvisited. The following list combines sights both on and off the beaten track.

Backstreet Cultural Museum. This tiny but fabulous museum brings together artifacts from the Mardi Gras Indian, brass band, and second line traditions. 1116 St. Claude Ave., Tremé. 504/522-4806.

Buddy Bolden's House. The most mysterious figure of early jazz, cornetist Buddy Bolden is the legendary originator of the "hot" sound that came to be associated with jazz. He lived and played across St. Charles Avenue from the Garden District. 2309 and 2527 First St., Uptown.

Congo Square. No single spot in New Orleans argues as strongly for the link between this city and jazz as Congo Square. Louis Armstrong Park, on the northern edge of the French Quarter, contains the original Congo Square site, marked with a plaque. During the 1700s and 1800s, Congo Square was reserved on Sunday for slaves seeking entertainment on their day off. Sharing a common language of music, rhythm, and dance, they helped link African tribal drumming rituals to jazz. N. Rampart St., between St. Philip and St. Peter sts., Tremé.

Danny Barker's Birthplace. Songwriter, vocalist, banjoist and guitarist, storyteller, and jazz historian Danny Barker performed from the 1930s all the way up to his death in 1994 and was a vital inter-generational link for New Orleans jazz musicians. Barker organized the Fairview Baptist Church Brass Band, whose alumni include Wynton and Branford Marsalis, Anthony "Tuba Fats" Lacen, and Charles and Kirk Joseph of the Dirty Dozen Brass Band. He worked through the 1970s as assistant curator of the New Orleans Jazz Museum and, leading his Onward Brass Band, encouraged younger players to keep Dixieland jazz alive. 1027-1029 Chartres St., French Quarter.

Jazz National Historical Park. Appointed guardians of New Orleans' jazz heritage, the uniformed rangers of this unique national park are also expert musicians, compelling teachers, and affable guides to the city's music. Look for the free guides to jazz history walking tours in their bookstore. JAN 2007 Armstrong Park, N. Rampart St., between St. Philip and St. Peter sts.; Visitor Center, 916 N. Peters St., Tremé/French Quarter. 504/589-4841 or 504/589-4806.

Jelly Roll Morton's House. The legendary pianist, who blurred the line between ragtime and jazz, lived in a mixed-race neighborhood. A "Creole of color," Morton always described his roots as French. 1443 Frenchmen St. Louis Armstrong's birthplace. The man who would bring jazz to the world was born in the poorest of circumstances, in a neighborhood now consumed by the Orleans Parish Prison and associated buildings. The house itself was demolished, but the legendary address still draws fans and historians to the area where it once stood. 723 Jane Alley, Mid-City.

George Vitale "Papa Jack" Laine's House. One of the most successful and influential bandleaders to emerge from the early period of jazz, Laine was also a pioneer drummer. He is credited with helping to popularize the music. 2405 and 2422-2424 Chartres St., Marigny.

Jazz is still alive and well in New Orleans today. Stroll down Frenchmen Street in the Faubourg Marigny any evening, and you'll hear jazz pouring from clubs such as the Spotted Cat, d.b.a., and Snug Harbor. In the French Quarter, best bets include Preservation Hall and the Palm Court Jazz Café.