Hiking in Maui

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Hiking

Hikes on Maui range from coastal seashore to verdant rain forest to alpine desert. Orchids, hibiscus, ginger, heliconia, and anthuriums grow wild on many trails, and exotic fruits like mountain apple, lilikoi (passion fruit), thimbleberry, and strawberry guava provide refreshing snacks for hikers. Ironically, much of what you see in lower altitude forests is alien, brought to Hawaii at one time or another by someone hoping to improve upon nature. Plants like strawberry guava and ginger may be tasty, but they grow over native forest plants and have become serious, problematic weeds.

The best hikes get you out of the imported landscaping and into the truly exotic wilderness. Hawaii possesses some of the world's rarest plants, insects, and birds. Pocket field guides are available at most grocery or drug stores and can really illuminate your walk. Before you know it you'll be nudging your companion and pointing out trees that look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. If you watch the right branches quietly you can spot the same Honeycreepers or Happy-faced Spiders scientists have spent their lives studying.

Haleakala National Park

Haleakala Crater

Hiking Haleakala Crater is undoubtedly the best hiking on the island. There are 30 mi of trails, two camping areas, and three cabins. If you're in shape, you can do a day hike descending from the summit (along Sliding Sands Trail) to the crater floor. If you're in shape and have time, consider spending several days here amid the cinder cones, lava flows, and all that loud silence.

Going into the crater is like going to a different planet. In the early 1960s NASA actually brought moon-suited astronauts here to practice what it would be like to "walk on the moon." Today, on one of the many hikes -- most moderate to strenuous -- you'll traverse black sand and wild lava formations, follow the trail of blooming ahinahina (silverswords), watch for nene (Hawaiian geese) as they fly above you, and witness tremendous views of big sky and burnt-red cliffs. If you're lucky enough to camp or stay in one of the cabins, you'll fall asleep under a wide screen of shooting stars, while the alauahio birds murmur around you like a litter of pups.

The best time to go into the crater is in the summer months, when the conditions are generally more predictable. Be sure to bring layered clothing -- and plenty of warm clothes if you're staying overnight. It may be scorching hot during the day, but it gets mighty chilly after dark. Ask a ranger about water availability before starting your hike. Note that overnight visitors must get a permit at park headquarters before entering the crater; day-use visitors do not need a permit. Cabins are $70 per night, and fit 12 people. They book months in advance by lottery, though it's possible to get lucky due to last-minute cancellations. To reserve a cabin, write at least two months in advance to Haleakala National Park (Box 369, Makawao, HI, 96768. 808/572-4459).

Oheo Gulch

A branch of Haleakala National Park, Oheo Gulch is famous for its pools (the area is sometimes called the "Seven Sacred Pools"). Truth is, there are more than seven pools, and there's nothing sacred about them. The owner of the Hotel Hana started calling the area "Seven Sacred Pools" to attract the masses to sleepy old Hana. His plan worked and the name stuck, much to the chagrin of most Mauians. The Pools of Oheo is another name for them.

The best time to visit the pools is in the morning, before the crowds and tour buses arrive. Start your day with a vigorous hike. Oheo has some fantastic trails to choose from, including our favorite, the Pipiwai Trail. When you're done, nothing could be better than going to the pools, lounging on the rocks, and cooling off in the freshwater reserves.

You'll find Oheo Gulch on Route 31, 10 mi past Hana town. All visitors must pay a $10 national park fee (per car not per person), which is valid for one week and can be used at Haleakala's summit as well.

Important note: The road beyond Oheo Gulch to Kaupo was closed at this writing because of a 2006 earthquake that caused some instability and falling rocks. Check with officials at Haleakala National Park (  808-572-4400; dial 0 during the recorded message to speak to a representative during office hours) before traveling beyond Oheo Gulch.

Pipiwai Trail. This moderate 2-mi trek upstream leads to the 400-foot Waimoku Falls, pounding down in all its power and glory. Follow signs from the parking lot up the road, past the bridge overlook, and uphill into the forest. Along the way you can take side trips and swim in the stream's basalt-lined pools. The trail bridges a sensational gorge and passes onto a boardwalk through a mystifying forest of giant bamboo. This stomp through muddy and rocky terrain takes around three hours to fully enjoy. It's best done early in the morning, before the touring crowds arrive (though it can never truly be called crowded). Trailhead: On highway toward Oheo bridge, near mile marker 42. 3 hrs, 4 mi round-trip.

Kahakai Trail. This easy ¼-mi hike (more like a walk) stretches between Kuloa Point and the Kipahulu campground. You'll see rugged shoreline views and can stop to gaze at the surging waves below. Trailhead: Kuloa Point. 15 mins, 1/2 mi round-trip.

Kuloa Point Trail. An easy 1/2-mi walk, this trail takes you from the Kipahulu Visitor Center down to the Pools of Oheo at Kuloa Point. On the trail you pass native trees and precontact Hawaiian sites. Don't forget to wear your suit and bring your towel if you plan to take a dip in the pools. Keep in mind: no lifeguards are on duty and you'll want to stick to the pools -- don't even think about swimming in the ocean. Trailhead: Kipahulu Visitor Center. 30 mins, 1 mi round-trip.

Campsites. Down at the grassy sea cliffs at the Pools of Oheo, you can camp, no permit required, although you can stay only three nights. Toilets, grills, and tables are available, but there's no water and open fires are prohibited. For more information, call the Kipahulu Visitor Center. Visitor Center:. 808/248-7375. www.nps.gov/hale.

Polipoli Forest

A good hiking area -- and something totally unexpected on a tropical island -- is Polipoli Forest (6,500 feet). During the Great Depression the government began a program to reforest the mountain, and soon cedar, pine, cypress, and even redwood took hold. Today, the area feels more like Vermont than Hawaii. It's cold and foggy here, and often wet, but don't let that stop you from going. There's something about the enormity of the trees, the quiet mist and mysterious caves that will make you feel you've discovered an unspoken secret, and one you'll want to keep to yourself.

To reach the forest, take Route 37 all the way out to the far end of Kula. Then turn left at Route 377. After about a 1/2 mi, turn right at Waipoli Road. First you'll encounter switchbacks; after that the road is just plain bad, but passable. Signs say that four-wheel-drive vehicles are required, though standard cars have been known to make it. Use your best judgment. There are great trails here for all levels, along with a small campground, and a cabin that you can rent from the Division of State Parks.

Important note: A major fire in January 2007 caused the closing of the Polipoli state park, with summer as the estimated time of reopening. Trail and campground conditions may have changed. Be sure to check with the Division of State Parks or the Maui Visitor Bureau (800/525-6284) before visiting to prevent disappointment.

Write far in advance for the cabin (Box 1049, Wailuku, 96793. 808/244-4354); for the campground, you can wait until you arrive in Wailuku and visit the Division of State Parks (54 High St. 808/984-8109).

Boundary Trail. This 4-mi moderate trail begins just past the Kula Forest Reserve boundary cattle guard on Polipoli Road, and descends into the lower boundary southward, all the way to the Ranger's cabin at the junction of the Redwood and Plum Trails. Link it with these trails, and you've got a hearty 5-mi day hike. The trail crosses many scenic gulches, with an overhead of tall eucalyptus, pine, cedar, and plum trees. Peep through the trees for wide views of Kula and Central Maui. Trailhead: Polipoli Forest Campground. 3-4 hrs, 5-mi loop.

Redwood Trail. This easy and colorful hike winds through redwoods and conifers past the short Tie Trail down to the old ranger's cabin. Although the views are limited, groves of trees and flowering bushes abound. At the end of the trail is an old cabin site and three-way junction with the Plum Trail and the Boundary Trail. Trailhead: From parking area at Polipoli campground, walk back up road ¼ mi and look to your left. 1-2 hrs, 3.4 mi round-trip.

Upper Waiakoa Trail. This scenic albeit rugged trail starts at the Polipoli Access Road (look for trailheads) and proceeds up Haleakala through mixed pine and past caves and thick shrubs. It crosses the land of Kaonoulu to the land of Waiakoa, where it reaches its highest point -- 7,800 feet. Here you'll find yourself in barren, raw terrain with fantastic views. At this point, you can either turn around, or continue on to the 3-mi Waiakoa Loop. Other than a cave shelter, there's no water or other facilities on either of these trails, so come prepared. Trailhead: Look for signs on Polipoli Access Rd. 5-6 hrs, 14 mi round-trip.

Iao Valley State Park

In Hawaiian, Iao means "supreme cloud." When you enter this mystical valley in the middle of an unexpected rain forest, you'll know why. At 750 feet above sea level, the 10-mi valley clings to the clouds as if it's trying to cover its naked beauty. If you've been spending too many days in the sun, the cool shade and moist air may be just the welcome change you need.

One of Maui's great wonders, the valley is the site of a famous battle to unite the Hawaiian islands. Out of the clouds, the Iao Needle, a tall chunk of volcanic rock, stands as a monument to the long-ago lookout for Maui warriors. Today, there's nothing warlike about it: the valley is a peaceful land of lush, tropical plants, clear pools and a running stream, and easy, enjoyable walks.

To get to Iao Valley State Park, go through Wailuku and continue to the west end of Route 32. The road dead ends into the parking lot. The park is open daily 7 AM to 7 PM. Facilities are available. (For park information call 808/984-8109.)

Iao Valley Trail. Anyone (including your grandparents) can take this easy hike from the parking lot at Iao Valley State Park. On your choice of two paved walkways, you can cross the Iao Stream and explore the junglelike area. Ascend the stairs up to the Iao Needle for spectacular views of Central Maui, or pause in the garden of Hawaiian heritage plants and marvel at the local youngsters hurling themselves from the bridge into the chilly pools below. Trailhead: Iao Valley parking lot. 30 mins, 1/2 mi round-trip.

Guided Hikes

Hawaii Nature Center. In Iao Valley, the Hawaii Nature Center leads easy, interpretive hikes for children and their families. 875 Iao Valley Rd., Wailuku. 808/244-6500. www.hawaiinaturecenter.org.

Hike Maui. Hike Maui is the oldest hiking company on the Islands, its rain forest, mountain ridge, crater, coastline, and archaeological-snorkel hikes are led by such knowledgeable folk as ethno-botanists and marine biologists. Prices range from $75 to $150 for hikes of 3 to 10 hours, including lunch (discounts are available for advance, online bookings). Hike Maui supplies waterproof day packs, rain ponchos, first-aid gear, water bottles, lunch and/or snacks for the longer hikes, and transportation to the site. 808/879-5270. www.hikemaui.com.

Friends of Haleakala National Park. This nonprofit offers day and overnight service trips into the crater, and in the Kipahulu region. The purpose of your trip, the service work itself, isn't too much -- mostly removing invasive plants and light cabin maintenance. Chances are you'll make good friends and have more fun than on a hike you'd do on your own. Trip leader Farley, or one of his equally knowledgeable cohorts, will take you to places you'd never otherwise see, and teach you about the native flora and birds along the way. Bring your own water; share food in group dinners. Admission is free. 808/248-7660. www.fhnp.org.

Maui Eco Adventures. For excursions into remote areas, Maui Eco Adventures is your choice. The ecologically minded company leads hikes into private or otherwise inaccessible areas. Hikes, which can be combined with kayaking, mountain biking, or sailing trips, explore botanically rich valleys in Kahakuloa and East Maui, as well as Hana, Haleakala, and more. Guides are botanists, mountaineers, boat captains, and backcountry chefs. Excursions are $80 to $160. 180 Dickenson St., Suite 101, Lahaina. 808/661-7720 or 877/661-7720. www.ecomaui.com.

Maui Hiking Safaris. Hikes with Maui Hiking Safaris are limited to groups of eight or less. Excursions include hikes to waterfalls, Haleakala, rain forests, and more. You can choose any two hikes to customize your own full-day tour. Hikes range from $60 to $140. 273 Leolani Pl., Pukalani. 808/573-0168 or 888/445-3963. www.mauihikingsafaris.com.

Paths in Paradise. Paths in Paradise is a small company offering specialized hikes into wetlands, rain-forest areas, and the crater. The owner, Renate Gassman-Duvall, is an expert birder and biologist. She helps hikers spot native honeycreepers feeding on lehua blossoms and supplies them with bird and plant check cards. Half-day hikes run $110, and full-day hikes are $135, with lunch and gear provided. 808/579-9294. www.hookipa.com/paths/index.htm.

Sierra Club. A great avenue into the island's untrammeled wilderness is Maui's chapter of the Sierra Club. Rather than venturing out on your own, join one of the club's hikes into pristine forests and Valley Isle watersheds, or along ancient coastal paths. Several hikes a month are led by informative naturalists who carry first-aid kits and arrange waivers to access private land. Some outings include volunteer service, but most are just for fun. Bring your own food and water, sturdy shoes, and a suggested donation of $5 -- a true bargain. Box 791180, Paia. 808/579-9802. www.hi.sierraclub.org/maui.