Scuba Diving in Maui

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Scuba Diving

Maui is just as scenic underwater as it is on dry land. In fact, Maui has been rated one of the top 10 dive spots in North America. A big advantage on Maui is that divers see more large animals than they would in areas such as the Caribbean. It's common on any dive to see huge sea turtles, eagle rays, and small reef sharks, not to mention many varieties of angelfish, parrotfish, eels, and octopi. Unlike other popular dive destinations, most of the species are unique to this area. For example, of Maui's 450 species of reef fish, 25% are endemic to the island. In addition, the terrain itself is different from other dive spots. Here you'll find ancient and intricate lava flows full of nooks where marine life hide and breed. Although the water tends to be a bit rougher -- not to mention colder -- here, divers are given a great thrill during humpback-whale season, when you can actually hear whales singing underwater.

Some of the finest diving spots in all of Hawaii lie along the Valley Isle's western and southwestern shores. Dives are best in the morning, when visibility can hold a steady 100 feet. If you're a certified diver, you can rent gear at any Maui dive shop simply by showing your PADI or NAUI card. Unless you're familiar with the area, however, it's probably best to hook up with a dive shop for an underwater tour. Tours include tanks and weights and start around $130. Wetsuits and BCs are rented separately, for an additional $15 to $30. Shops also offer introductory dives ($100 to $160) for those who aren't certified. Before signing on with any of these outfitters, it's a good idea to ask a few pointed questions about your guide's experience, the weather outlook, and the condition of the equipment.

Before you head out on your dive, be sure to check conditions. If you have access to the Internet, check the Glenn James weather site, www.hawaiiweathertoday.com, for a breakdown on the weather, wind, and visibility conditions.

Diving 101

If you've always wanted gills, Hawaii is a good place to get them. Although the bulky, heavy equipment seems freakish on shore, underwater it allows you to move about freely, almost weightlessly. As you descend into another world, you slowly grow used to the sound of your own breathing and the strangeness of being able to do so 30-plus feet down.

Most resorts offer introductory dive lessons in their pools, which allow you to acclimate to the awkward breathing apparatus before venturing out into the great blue. If you aren't starting from a resort pool, no worries. Most intro dives take off from calm, sandy beaches, such as Ulua or Kaanapali. If you're bitten by the deep-sea bug and want to continue diving, you should get certified. Only certified divers can rent equipment or go on more adventurous dives, such as night dives, open-ocean dives, and cave dives.

There are several certification companies, including PADI, NAUI, and SSI. PADI, the largest, is the most comprehensive. Once you begin your certification process, stick with the same company. The dives you log will not apply to another company's certification. (Dives with a PADI instructor, for instance, will not count toward SSI certification.) Remember that you will not be able to fly or go to the airy summit of Haleakala within 24 hours of diving. Open-water certification will take three to four days and cost around $350. From that point on, the sky.. or rather, the sea's the limit!

Best Spots

Honolua Bay (Between mile markers 32 and 33 on Rte. 30, look for narrow dirt road to left) has beach entry. This West Maui marine preserve is alive with many varieties of coral and tame tropical fish, including large ulua, kahala, barracuda, and manta rays. With depths of 20 to 50 feet, this is a popular summer dive spot, good for all levels. High surf often prohibits winter dives.

Only 3 mi offshore, Molokini Crater is world renowned for its deep, crystal-clear, fish-filled waters. A crescent-shape islet formed by the eroding top of a volcano, the crater is a marine preserve ranging 10 to 80 feet in depth. The numerous tame fish and brilliant coral dwelling within the crater make it a popular introductory dive site. On calm days, the back side of Molokini (called Back Wall) can be a dramatic sight for advanced divers -- giving them visibility of up to 150 feet. The enormous dropoff into the Alalakeiki Channel (to 350 feet) offers awesome seascapes, black coral, and chance sightings of larger pelagic fish and sharks.

On the South Shore, a popular dive spot is Makena Landing, also called Five Graves or Five Caves. About 1/5 mi down Makena Road, you'll feast on underwater delights -- caves, ledges, coral heads, and an outer reef home to a large green-sea-turtle colony (called "Turtle Town"). Entry is rocky lava, so be careful where you step. This area is for the more experienced diver. Rookies can enter farther down Makena Road at Makena Landing, and dive to the right.

South of Makena Landing, the best diving by far is at _Ahihi Bay and La Pérouse Bay, both South Maui marine preserves. In _Ahihi Bay, you'll find an area the locals call Fishbowl, which is a small cove right beside the road, next to a hexagon-shape house. Here you'll find excellent underwater scenery, with many types of fish and coral. Be careful of the rocky bottom entry (wear reef shoes if you have them). This area can get crowded, especially in high season. If you want to steer clear of the crowds, look for a second entry 1/2 mi farther down the road -- a gravel parking lot at the surf spot called Dumps. Entry into the Bay here is more tricky, as the coastline is all lava.

La Pérouse Bay, formed from the last lava flow 20 years ago, brings you the best variety of fish -- more than any other site. The lava rock provides a protective habitat, and all four types of Hawaii's angelfish can be found here. To dive the spot called Pinnacles, enter anywhere along the shore, just past the private entrance to the beach. Again, wear your reef shoes, as entry is sharp. To the right, you'll be in the marine reserve; to the left, you're outside. Look for the white, sandy bottom with massive coral heads. Pinnacles is for experienced divers only.

Equipment Rental & Dive Tours

Ed Robinson's Diving Adventures. Ed wrote the book, literally, on Molokini. Because he knows so much, he includes a "Biology 101" talk with every dive. An expert marine photographer, he offers diving instruction and boat charters to South Maui, the backside of Molokini, and Lanai. Weekly night dives are available, and there's a 10% discount if you book three or more days. Check out the Web site for good info and links on scuba sites, weather, and sea conditions. 50 Koki St., Kihei. 808/879-3584 or 800/635-1273. www.mauiscuba.com.

Lahaina Divers. With more than 25 years of diving experience, this West Maui shop offers tours of Maui, Molokini, and Lanai. Big charter boats (which can be crowded, with up to 30 passengers per boat) leave daily for Molokini crater, Back Wall, Lanai, Turtle Reef, and more. A continental breakfast and deli lunch are included. Rates range from $109 to $189. For less experienced divers, they offer a "Discover Scuba" lesson daily. 143 Dickenson St., Lahaina. 808/667-7496 or 800/998-3483. www.lahainadivers.com.

Maui Dive Shop. With six locations island-wide, Maui Dive Shop offers scuba charters, diving instruction, and equipment rental. Excursions, offering awe-inspiring beach and boat dives, go to Molokini Back Wall (most advanced dive), Shipwreck Beach on Lanai, and more. Night dives and customized trips are available, as are full SSI and PADI certificate programs. 1455 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. 808/879-3388 or 800/542-3483. www.mauidiveshop.com.

Mike Severns Diving. Mike takes small groups of certified divers to both popular and off-the-beaten-path dive sites. Boat trips leave from Kihei Boat Ramp, and go wherever conditions are best: the Marine Life Conservation District, Molokini's Backwall, St. Anthony shipwreck, Makena, La Pérouse, or the Kanaio Coast. You're free to have a guide during your dive, or go into the depths alone. Box 627, Kihei. 808/879-6596. www.mikesevernsdiving.com.

Shaka Divers. Shaka provides personalized dives including a great four-hour intro dive ($89), a refresher course ($79), scuba certification ($375), and shore dives ($59) to Makena, Ulua, Five Graves (at Makena Landing), Turtle Town, Bubble Cave, Black Sand Beach, and more. Typical dives last about an hour, with 30 to 45 feet visibility. Dives can be booked on short notice, with afternoon tours available (hard to find on Maui). Shaka also offers night dives, torpedo scooter dives, and "bug hunt" expeditions (lobster hunts). Look for the Scuba Bus, blowing bubbles as it drives down the road. 24 Hakoi Pl., Kihei. 808/250-1234. www.shakadivers.com.