Kayaking in Maui

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Kayaking

Kayaking is a fantastic way to experience Maui's coast up close. Floating aboard a "plastic popsicle stick" is easier than you might think, and allows you to cruise out to vibrant, living coral reefs and waters where dolphins and even whales roam. Kayaking can be a leisurely paddle or a challenge of heroic proportions, depending on your ability, the location, and the weather. Though you can rent kayaks independently, we recommend taking a guide. An apparently calm surface can hide extremely strong ocean currents -- and you don't really want to take an unplanned trip to Tahiti! Most guides are naturalists who will steer you away from surging surf, lead you to pristine reefs, and point out camouflaged fish, like the stalking hawkfish. Not having to schlep your gear on top of your rental car is a bonus. A half-day tour runs around $75. Custom tours can be arranged.

If you decide to strike out on your own, tour companies will rent kayaks for the day with paddles, life vests, and roof racks, and many will meet you near your chosen location. Ask for a map of good entries and plan to avoid paddling back to shore against the wind (schedule extra time for the return trip regardless). When you're ready to snorkel, secure your belongings in a dry pack onboard and drag your boat by its bowline behind you. (This isn't as bad as it sounds.)

Canoe Races

Polynesians first traveled to Hawaii by outrigger canoe, and racing the traditional craft is a favorite pastime on the Islands. Canoes were revered in old Hawaii, and no voyage began without a blessing, ceremonial chanting, and a hula performance to ensure a safe journey. In Lahaina in mid-May, the two-week Festival of Canoes (808/667-9193. www.visitlahaina.com) includes a torch-lighting ceremony, arts-and-crafts demonstrations, a chance for canoe enthusiasts to observe how Polynesian vessels are rigged, and the launching of a "Parade of Canoes."

Best Spots

In West Maui, past the steep cliffs on the Honoapiilani Highway and before you hit Lahaina, there's a long stretch of inviting coastline, including Ukumehame (Between mile markers 12 and 14 on Rte. 30) and Olowalu beaches. This is a good spot for beginners; entry is easy and there's much to see in every direction. If you want to snorkel, the best visibility is farther out at Olowalu, at about 25 feet depth. Watch for sharp kiawe thorns buried in the sand on the way into the water.

Makena Landing (Off Makena Rd.) is an excellent taking-off point for a South Maui adventure. Enter from the paved parking lot or the small sandy beach a little south. The bay itself is virtually empty, but the right edge is flanked with brilliant coral heads and juvenile turtles. If you round the point on the right, you come across Five Caves, a system of enticing underwater arches. In the morning you may see dolphins, and the arches are havens for lobsters, eels, and spectacularly hued butterfly fish. Check out the million-dollar mansions lining the shoreline and guess which celebrity lives where.

Equipment Rental & Tours

Maui Sea Kayaking. Since 1988, this company has been guiding small groups (four-person trips) to secret spots along Maui's coast. They take great care in customizing their outings. For example, the guides accommodate kayakers with disabilities as well as senior kayakers, and they offer kid-size gear. For paddlers looking to try something new, they also offer kayak surfing. Trips leave from various locations, depending upon the weather. 808/572-6299. www.maui.net/~kayaking.

South Pacific Kayaks. These guys pioneered recreational kayaking on Maui -- they know their stuff. Guides are friendly, informative, and eager to help you get the most out of your experience; we're talking true, fun-loving, kayak geeks. Some activity companies show a strange lack of care for the marine environment; South Pacific stands out as adventurous and responsible. They offer a variety of trips leaving from both West Maui and South Shore locations, including an advanced four-hour "Molokini Challenge." 800/776-2326 or 808/875-4848. www.southpacifickayaks.com.