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Windward O'ahu

To look at Honolulu's topsy-turvy urban sprawl, you would never suspect the Windward side existed. It's a secret O'ahuans like to keep, so they can watch the look of awe on the faces of their guests when the car emerges from the tunnels through the mountains and they gaze for the first time on the panorama of turquoise bays and emerald valleys watched over by the knife-edged Ko'olau ridges. Jaws literally drop. Every time. And this just a 15-minute drive from downtown.

Drive-phobic Honolulans tend to pack food and water when they have to trek to "the other side" -- just the kind of thinking that Windward siders, who know what a good thing they have, like to encourage.

It is on this side of the island that many Native Hawaiians live. Evidence of traditional lifestyles is abundant in crumbling fish ponds, rock platforms that once were altars, taro patches still being worked, and throw-net fishermen posed stock-still above the water (though today, they're invariably wearing polarized sunglasses, the better to spot the fish).

Here, the pace is slower, more oriented toward nature. Beach-going, hiking, diving, surfing, and boating are the draw, along with a visit to the Polynesian Cultural Center, poking through little shops and wayside stores. Many vacation rentals and bed-and-breakfast operations can be found on this side of the island, offering a tantalizing taste of real island life.

At a Glance

 

NEIGHBORHOOD
RATINGS

  • Sightseeing ****
  • Nightlife
  • Dining ***
  • Lodging *
  • Shopping ****
  • Beaches ****