An hour from town and a world away in atmosphere, O'ahu's North Shore, roughly from Kahuku Point to Ka'ena Point, is about small farms and big waves, tourist traps, and other-worldly landscapes. Parks and beaches, roadside fruit stands and shrimp shacks, a rare shop full of Hawaiian and Asian collectibles, a bird sanctuary, and a valley preserve offer a dozen reasons to stop between the one-time plantation town of Kahuku and the surf mecca of Hale'iwa.
Hale'iwa has had many lives, from resort getaway in the 1900s to plantation town through the 20th century to its life today as a surf and tourist magnet, offering fashion boutiques, surf shops, restaurants, and the best grilled mahimahi sandwich on the North Shore at Kua 'Aina Sandwich.
Beyond Hale'iwa is the tiny village of Waialua, a string of beach parks, an airfield where gliders, hang-gliders, and parachutists play, and, at the end of the road, Ka'ena Point State Recreation Area, which offers a brisk hike, striking views and whale-watching in season.
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