$$$$, Japanese, Honolulu
Fodor's Review:
You may find this restaurant's approach exasperating and a little condescending. Although it's possible to order from the menu, you're strongly encouraged to order omakase-style (oh-mah-ka-say, roughly, "trust me"), letting the chef send out his choices for the night. The waiters keep up a steady mantra: "Please, no shoyu on this one." "One piece, one bite." But then you take the first bite of California baby squid stuffed with Louisiana crab or unctuous toro (ahi belly) smeared with a light soy reduction, washed down with a $20 glass of the smoothest sake you've ever tasted, and any trace of annoyance will vanish. Chef Seiji Kamagawa stands front and center at the counter, his hands -- graceful as a conductor's, precise as a surgeon's -- forming sushi or slicing sashimi, his eyes sternly examining the room. Caution: the courses come very rapidly; ask to be served every other time. Even bigger caution: the courses, generally two pieces of sushi or 6-8 slices of sashimi, add up fast. It's easy to spend more than $100 in a half hour, not counting drinks. Still, the meal will be as unforgettable as the tab.
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