The spectacular waterfalls, mysterious jungles, emerald fields, and stunning ocean vistas along Highway 19 northwest of Hilo are collectively referred to as the Hilo-Hamakua Heritage Coast. Brown signs featuring a sugarcane tassel reflect the area's history: thousands of acres of sugarcane are now idle, with no industry to support since "King Sugar" left the island in the early 1990s. The 45-mi drive winds through little plantation towns, Papa'ikou, Laupahoehoe, and Pa'auilo among them. It's a great place to wander off the main road and see "real" Hawai'i -- untouched valleys, overgrown banyan trees, tiny coastal villages. In particular, the "Heritage Drive," a 4-mi loop just off the main highway, is well worth the detour.
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