These two neighboring villages thrived during plantation days. There were hotels, saloons, and theaters – even a railroad. They took a hit when "Big Sugar" left the island, but both towns are blossoming once again today, thanks to strong local communities and an influx of artists keen on honoring the towns' past. Old historic buildings have been restored and now hold shops, galleries, and eateries. In Kapaau, browse through the Hawaiian collection of Kohala Book Shop (54-3885 Akoni Pule Hwy. 808/889-6400. www.kohalabooks.com), the second-largest bookstore in the state.
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