Long-running and much beloved, this Italian restaurant is more like a club than an eatery. Patrons tend to fare better when they're recognized, so go with a local or pretend you've been there before. Confidently order some cold and hot antipasti -- including various carpaccios, porcini mushrooms, calamari, grilled goat cheese, shrimps, mussels -- and a few festive entrées. Most pasta is made fresh, so consider sampling two or three, maybe with pesto sauce, Gorgonzola, and fresh tomatoes.
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