A playful 1990s redesign spruced up this open-air pedestrian mall, adding a grove of 20 towering date palms, 5 linear pools, and colorful broken-tile mosaics to the futuristic 1950s vision of Fontainebleau designer Morris Lapidus. Some of the shops are owner-operated boutiques with a delightful variety of clothing, furnishings, garden supplies, and decorative design. Others are the typical chain stores of American malls. Remnants of tired old Lincoln Road -- beauty-supply and discount electronics stores on the Collins end of the strip -- somehow fit nicely into the mix. The new Lincoln Road is fun, lively, and friendly for people old, young, gay, and straight -- and their dogs. Folks skate, scoot, bike, or jog here. The best times to hit the road are during Sunday morning farmers' markets and on weekend evenings, when cafés bustle, art galleries open shows, street performers make the sidewalk their stage, and stores stay open late.

Two of the landmarks worth checking out at the eastern end of Lincoln Road are the massive 1940s keystone building at 420 Lincoln Road, which has a 1945 Leo Birchanky mural in the lobby, and the 1921 mission-style Miami Beach Community Church, at Drexel Avenue. The Lincoln Theatre (Nos. 541 to 545), at Pennsylvania Avenue, is a classical four-story art-deco gem with friezes. The New World Symphony, a national advanced-training orchestra led by Michael Tilson Thomas, rehearses and performs here, and concerts are often broadcast via loudspeakers, to the delight of visitors. Just west, facing Pennsylvania, a fabulous Cadillac dealership sign was discovered underneath the facade of the Lincoln Road Millennium Building, on the south side of the mall. At Euclid Avenue there's a monument to Lapidus, who in his 90s watched the renaissance of his whimsical creation.

Farther west, toward Biscayne Bay, the street is lined with chic food markets, cafés, and boutiques. Here you'll find the ArtCenter/South Florida (No. 924), between Jefferson and Michigan avenues, home to one of the first arts groups to help resurrect the area. At Lenox Avenue, a black-and-white art-deco movie house with a Mediterranean barrel-tile roof is now the Colony Theater (No. 1040), where live theater and experimental films are presented.

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