The first permanent museum of modern art in the country, the masterpiece-filled Phillips Collection is unique both in origin and content. It opened in 1921 in the Georgian revival mansion of collector Duncan Phillips, who wanted to showcase his art in a museum that would stand as a memorial to his father and brother. Having no interest in a painting's market value or its faddishness, Phillips searched for pieces that impressed him as outstanding products of a particular artist's unique vision. At the heart of the collections are impressionist and modern masterpieces by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Vincent van Gough, Paul Cé[ac]zanne, Edgar Degas, Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee, and Henri Matisse. These are grouped by theme and artist throughout the Phillips mansion, making for a museum-going experience that is as intimate and comfortable as it is inspiring.

The collection's best-known paintings include Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party, Repentant Peter by both Goya and El Greco, A Bowl of Plums by 18th-century artist Jean-Baptiste Siméon Chardin, Degas's Dancers at the Barre, and Vincent van Gogh's Entrance to the Public Garden at Arles. Cé[ac]zanne's intense, piercing self-portrait was the painting Phillips said he would save first if the gallery caught fire. Gorgeous, color-filled paintings by Pierre Bonnard make up the country's largest collection of the painter's works.

Unlike most other galleries, the Phillips employs students of art, many of whom are artists themselves, to sit by the paintings and answer questions. On Thursday the museum stays open late for live jazz, gallery talks, and a cash bar. From September to May, the museum holds a Sunday afternoon concert series at 4 PM in the music room. Seats are unreserved and included with museum admission, but showing up early is recommended. Take a break in the Firehook Café[ac], overlooking the museum courtyard. Walk-in staff-led tours of special exhibitions are offered Friday at 11; walk-in tours of the museum and permanent collection are offered Saturday at 11. Tours are unreserved and included in the price of admission.