You can get detailed directions to the city's public golf courses or reserve a tee time ($1 reservation fee per player) up to six days in advance through San Francisco's automated municipal tee times reservation line (415/750-4653. www.parks.sfgov.org) and online site (click on the link for "Golf Course Info").
Expect to use every club in your bag to tackle the fast, sloping greens and unpredictable winds at the challenging Gleneagles International Golf Course (McLaren Park, 2100 Sunnydale Ave., Excelsior/Visitacion Valley. 415/587-2425. www.gleneaglesgolfsf.com). The 9-hole, par-36 course is a little worse for wear.
Golden Gate Park Golf Course (Near 47th Ave. and Fulton St., Golden Gate Park. 415/751-8987) is a 9-hole, par-27 course in lovely Golden Gate Park, just above Ocean Beach. It's a beginner's paradise, but more seasoned players might be put off by the lax play and wayward balls. There's first-come, first-served play only (no reservations).
Harding Park Golf Course (99 Harding Rd., at Skyline Blvd., Lake Merced. 415/664-4690. www.harding-park.com) has an 18-hole, par-72 course and a 9-hole, par-32 Jack Fleming-designed course. The 9-hole course has all the characteristics of a championship course, but is less difficult. Both have fantastic views. About $15 million has been invested into the place over the past few years, and it shows. Book tee times as far in advance as possible.
The 18-hole, par-68 Lincoln Park Golf Course (300 34th Ave., at Clement St., Richmond. 415/221-9911) offers magnificent views of the Golden Gate Bridge, but the somewhat scraggly greens don't hold up well in damp weather.
Arnold Palmer Golf Management runs the challenging and well-maintained 18-hole, par-72 Presidio Golf Course (300 Finley Rd., at Arguello Blvd., Presidio. 415/561-4661. www.presidiogolf.com). You can book tee times online for an additional $8-$12 fee.
Traditional sit-down Japanese showers and communal bathing are two out-of-the-ordinary features of Kabuki Springs & Spa (1750 Geary Blvd., Japantown. 415/922-6000. www.kabukisprings.com). The renowned $120 Javanese Lulur Treatment includes a combination massage with jasmine oil, exfoliation with turmeric and ground rice, yogurt application, and a candlelight soak with rose petals. Men and women are welcome every day for private treatments, but call ahead regarding communal bathing schedules; the baths are coed only on Tuesday. Note that clothing is optional, except on coed days.
Southeast-Asian-inspired Kamalaspa (240 Stockton St., Union Square. 415/217-7700. www.kamalaspa.com) has a full range of ayurvedic (using herbs and aromatic oils) massage and body treatments in addition to the traditional facials, pedicures, and massages. The overall experience is luxurious, expensive, and worth it.
Osento (955 Valencia St., Mission. 415/282-6333. www.osento.com) is a women-only establishment. Like Kabuki, it's a Japanese-style spa with massage and day-use facilities like saunas, a communal hot tub, and an outdoor shower and sundeck. Unlike Kabuki, clothing is not allowed in certain areas, and everyone goes nude. It's a bit bare bones, but at $12-$20 (sliding scale) for a day pass, it might be the best deal in town.
One downside: after experiencing the serene and luxurious Nob Hill Spa (1075 California St., Nob Hill. 415/345-2888. www.huntingtonhotel.com) at the Huntington Hotel, you'll start to expect champagne with your massage. Unique features include the eucalyptus steam bath and a gorgeous infinity pool that overlooks the city through a glass wall. After your treatments, you can hang here all day: take a yoga or Pilates class, get a green-tea body scrub, or just read on the sundeck.
All treatments at the St. Regis Hotel's très chic Remède Spa (125 3rd St., at Mission St., SoMa. 415/284-4060. www.remede.com) incorporate a line of high-end French skin-care products. Treatments include custom skin therapy, massage, body scrubs, seaweed wraps, and a variety of mani-pedi, facial, and waxing options. Prices range from $30 for a manicure to $230 for a Shiatsu, Swedish, deep-tissue, or reflexology massage.
Elegant but casual Spa Radiance (3011 Fillmore St., between Union and Filbert Sts., Cow Hollow. 415/346-6281. www.sparadiance.com) specializes in facials and draws the occasional celebrity. Try a vitamin-and-oxygen treatment, or the "super-duper" series -- a deep-pore cleaning followed by dermabrasion.