Katsuya indulges Angelenos' sushi bars mania, catering to a beautiful, trend-conscious clientele. This place ups the ante with a seductive, ultramodern look created by celebrated designer Philippe Starck, in which walls are lined with backlit murals of a geisha's face -- glossy lips kiss the room's clientelle from one wall, while kohl-rimmed eyes peer out from behind the sushi bar on another. Unlike some of its peers, however, the food here is not simply an afterthought. Highly regarded sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out spicy tuna atop crispy rice, whimsical wonton cones filled with scoops of mousselike crab or tuna tartare, and larger plates like baked miso-marinated black cod. Don't neglect the plates from the robata bar, where skewers of veggies, seafood, and meats are grilled over hot coals.
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