A big open kitchen with a mammoth, revolving rotisserie is the heart of this handsome, white-tile restaurant. Off the spit come roasted pork, veal, venison, or whole spit-roasted fish such as Arctic char. A rustic sausage plate or prosciutto paired with creamy burrata cheese are fine ways to begin, and pasta courses (like fusilli with lamb ragù) are always skillfully prepared.
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