In what was originally a turn-of-the-20th-century beach house, Joe Miller has created the definitive neighborhood restaurant with a citywide reputation. His French-influenced California cooking puts fresh ingredients to imaginative uses. Start with tuna tartare or five kinds of heirloom tomatoes, each paired with a different sauce, and continue with Kurobuta pork cassoulet or potato-crusted red snapper in port wine sauce. For dessert, try the kirsch-flavored Boston cream pie. Lunch is a terrific value -- all entrées are $15 or less and come with soup or salad.
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