Brightly colored murals lend a fittingly folksy air to this restaurant, which serves a mix of Russian and Central Asian cuisine. Start with any of the meat dumplings -- samsa (baked), manti (steamed), or pelmeni (boiled) -- and go on to eggplant Samarkand (sautéed with tomatoes and garlic), lulya-kebab (skewered ground lamb), or akurma lagman (a stir-fry of beef, noodles, and vegetables seasoned with cumin). The atmosphere is festive -- on those evenings when a combo plays, customers have been known to burst into a rousing song.
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