Where the West Is Still Wild

If you think Tucson has gone the way of those sprawling suburban development like Phoenix to the north, well, you're partly right. Many of the wide-open spaces that inspired the lyrics of old cowboy songs have become housing tracts, golf courses, and shopping malls. But a sliver of the rugged and free-spirited ranching life that shaped the American West is alive and well on the outskirts of town, where urban cowboys and cowgirls come to fulfill their dreams at dude ranches, also called guest ranches.

Riding is the preferred activity on the ranch. Slow, fast, mountain, and all-day rides are offered, and some ranches allow you to help groom and feed the horses. As you ride up into Saguaro National Park or the Coronado National Forest, wranglers give sage advice on horsemanship and tell tales (some tall) of their most harrowing cattle drives. For those who don't saddle up, there are activities including birding and nature walks, mountain hikes, tennis, and swimming Afterwards, you can soak in the hot tub, get a massage, or laugh with new friends about the day's adventures over margaritas.

After a day of riding or hiking, or maybe just sitting outside with a book, guests find a warm welcome at happy hour, dinner, and around the campfire. Lodges are outfitted with comfortable couches, crackling fireplaces, board games, and Western saloon-type bars (one even has saddles for barstools). Ranch stays are popular for family vacations but the ranch experience also draws many single travelers who can easily find camaraderie in this setting.

Though accommodations are a bit more rustic than at resort hotels, there are arguably more comforts and the dude ranch experience eliminates many stresses often associated with more traditional vacations: Since all meals and activities are included, you have fewer decisions to make about structuring your day (will it be the mountain ride or team penning?), and no anxiety about choosing a restaurant or dealing with crowds.

Three ranches are in the Tucson area. The large and luxurious Tanque Verde Ranch, on the eastern edge of town, has two swimming pools (one indoor), a tennis pro, and lavish buffet meals. Children are separated from adults for rides and activities. The White Stallion Ranch, adjacent to Saguaro National Park's west unit, has challenging riding as well as massages and a fitness center. The owners live and work on this 3,000-acre cattle ranch, the setting for High Chaparral. The smaller and more rustic Lazy K Bar Guest Ranch, also in the Northwest, has hayrides and two hilltop banquet rooms for special events.