Don't fret -- this isn't a hangout for the local gun-and-rod set. The name -- which means Hunting and Fishing Club -- is an ironic reference to the wood-and-leather decor Chef Claude Pelletier inherited from the previous owners. He's jazzed it up, though, with some halogen lamps that make it easier for you to see the food, which looks almost as good as it tastes. The elegant setting, Pelletier's innovative style, and impeccable service has made this a favorite with the city's serious foodies. For a different riff on an old favorite, try Pelletier's version of surf-and-turf. You get the lobster tail, but instead of steak you get a juicy lump of suckling pig, or a crispy heap of sweetbreads.
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