Casual elegance reigns at this former hardware store, now handsomely refurbished as a well-lighted, spacious restaurant that has received numerous accolades including "Best Restaurant in the Prairies" from EnRoute Magazine. From the glassed-in kitchen, chef-owner Larry Stewart prepares progressive Canadian cuisine using fresh local produce, bold flavors, and dramatic presentation. There are no shortcuts here -- almost everything is prepared fresh including breads, smoked meats, and homemade sorbets. Applewood-smoked salmon is served with truffled potato pierogi (dumplings); beef tenderloin comes in a goat cheese crust; and the warm gingerbread cake is served with a rhubarb-Saskatoonberry compote. The impressive wine list includes more than 500 choices and has garnered eight consecutive Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence. For a quiet dinner, ask for a table with a view of the river valley. If you'd like an interactive experience, ask to sit at the chef's table in the kitchen. Reservations are recommended.