Panama
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1. Esclusas de Miraflores
Nautical Site/LighthouseThe four-story visitor center next to these double locks provides a front-row view of massive ships passing through the lock chambers. It also houses an excellent museum about the canal's history, engineering, daily operations, and environmental demands. Because most of the canal lies at 85 feet above sea level, each ship that passes through has to be raised to that level with three locks as they enter it, and brought back to sea level with three locks on the other end. Miraflores has two levels of locks, which move vessels between Pacific sea level and Miraflores Lake, a man-made stretch of water between Miraflores Locks and the Pedro Miguel Locks. Due to the proximity to Panama City, these locks have long been the preferred place to visit the canal, but the visitor center has made it even more popular.There are observation decks on the ground and fourth floors of the massive cement building, from which you can watch vessels move through the locks, as a bilingual narrator explains the process and provides information about each ship, including the toll they paid to use the canal. The museum contains an excellent combination of historic relics, photographs, videos, models, and even a simulator of a ship passing through the locks. There is also a gift shop and a snack bar (the second-floor restaurant was closed for renovations as of press time). While the canal is busier at night, the largest ships pass during the day. You can call at 9 am the day before your visit to ask what time the largest ships are due through the locks.
Road to Gamboa, across from Ciudad del Saber, , Panama507-276–8325Sight Details
Rate Includes: $15, children $10, Daily 9–5 (last tickets sold at 4:15) -
2. Finca Lérida
On the eastern slope of Volcán Barú, this coffee farm encompasses 370 acres of bird-filled cloud forest. The farm is recommended in A Guide to the Birds of Panama as the place to see quetzals, and that's practically a guarantee between January and April. You may also see silver-throated tanagers, collared trogons, clorophonias, and about 230 other species. The farm's resident guide can take you along its 10 km (6 miles) of hiking trails, one leading to a small waterfall, or you can explore them on your own. The guide is invaluable if you're looking for quetzals. The coffee tour here gives insight into the harvesting and processing of Boquete's most famous product. The farm has a great view and a moderately priced café serving homemade desserts and fresh-roasted coffee.
Alto Quiel, Chiriquí, Panama720–2285Sight Details
Rate Includes: $10, coffee tour $35, guided hike $50, bird-watching $75 (includes lunch), Daily 7 am–8 pm -
3. Parque Nacional Coiba
Isla Coiba began its human history as a penal colony—it was Panama's version of Devil's Island—where 3,000 convicts toiled on farms carved out of the dry forest, growing food for the country's entire prison system. The Panamanian government declared the island a national park in 1991, but it took more than a decade to relocate the prisoners. Parque Nacional Coiba now protects 667,000 acres of sea and islands, of which Isla Coiba itself constitutes about 120,000 acres. The marine life of the park is as impressive as that of the Galápagos. The extensive and healthy reefs are home to comical frog fish, sleek rays, and massive groupers. The national park holds more than 4,000 acres of reef, composed of two-dozen different types of coral and 760 fish species. The park's waters are also visited by 22 species of whale and dolphin, including killer whales and humpback whales, fairly common there from July to September. The wildlife on Coiba doesn't compare to that on the Galápagos, but its forests are home to howler monkeys, agoutis (large rodents), and 150 bird species, including the endemic Coiba spinetail, the rare crested eagle, and the country's biggest population of endangered scarlet macaws. Several trails wind through the island's forests; the Sendero de los Monos (Monkey Trail), a short boat trip from the ranger station, is the most popular. Crocodiles inhabit the island's extensive mangrove swamps, and sea turtles nest on some beaches from April to September. The most popular beach in the park is on the tiny Granito de Oro (Gold Nugget) island, where lush foliage backs white sand, and good snorkeling lies a short swim away. Options for visiting Isla Coiba range from a day trip out of Playa Santa Catalina to one-week tours, or small-ship cruises that include on-board lodging. The National Environment Authority (ANAM) offers accommodations ($20 per bed; five beds per building) in air-conditioned cement buildings with communal kitchen—you have to bring your own food—near the ranger station. There is also space for 15 campers ($10 per two-person tent). Reserve at least a month ahead of time during the dry season.
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4. Plaza Bolívar
Casco ViejoA small plaza surrounded by 19th-century architecture, this is one of Casco Viejo's most pleasant spots, especially at night, when people gather at its various cafés for drinks and dinner, and street musicians perform for tips. It's centered around a monument to the Venezuelan general Simón Bolívar, the "Liberator of Latin America," with decorative friezes marking events of his life and an Andean condor perched above him. In 1926 Bolívar organized a meeting of independence with leaders from all over Latin America in the Franciscan monastery in front of the plaza, which, in the end, he was unable to attend. The original San Francisco Church was destroyed by fire in the 18th century and restored twice in the 20th century. At this writing, the church was closed for yet another round of renovations, and was to reopen to the public in 2016 (open hours had not yet been announced). The former monastery is now occupied by a Catholic school. Across the plaza from it, on the corner of Avenida B and Calle 4, is the smaller church, Iglesia de San Felipe de Neri, which was recently restored and is open daily. The Hotel Colombia, across the street from it, was one of the country's best when it opened its doors in 1937, but it fell into neglect during the late 20th century until it was renovated in the 1990s and converted to luxury apartments.
Av. B between Calle 3 and Calle 4, Panama City, Panamá, Panama -
5. Plaza de Francia
Casco ViejoDesigned by Leonardo de Villanueva, this attractive plaza on the southeastern corner of the Casco Viejo peninsula is dedicated to the French effort to build the canal, and the thousands who perished in the process. An obelisk towers over the monument at the end of the plaza, where a dozen marble plaques recount the arduous task. Busts of Ferdinand de Lesseps and his lieutenants gaze across the plaza at the French Embassy—the large baby-blue building to the north of it. Next to them is a bust of Dr. Carlos Finlay, a Cuban physician who later discovered that yellow fever, which killed thousands during the French effort, originated from a mosquito bite—information that prompted the American campaign to eradicate mosquitoes from the area before they began digging. The plaza itself is a pleasant spot shaded by poinciana trees, which carry bright-orange blossoms from May to July. At the front of the plaza is a statue of Pablo Arosemena, one of Panama's founding fathers and one of its first presidents. The plaza covers part of a small peninsula that served as a bastion for the walled city's defense during its early years. The former dungeons of Las Bóvedas line the plaza's eastern edge, and next door stands a large white building that was once the city's main courthouse but now houses the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (National Culture Institute).
Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panamá, Panama -
Recommended Fodor’s Video
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6. Refugio Ecológico del Chorro Macho
Nature Preserve/Wildlife RefugeEl Valle's most user-friendly forest experience is available at the small, private Refugio Ecológico del Chorro Macho, west of Cerro Gaital. The reserve has well-kept trails, walking sticks, and the option of hiring a guide at the gate. It belongs to Raúl Arias, who also owns the adjacent Canopy Lodge, and it contains one of El Valle's major landmarks, El Chorro Macho, a 115-foot cascade surrounded by lush foliage. You're not allowed to swim beneath the waterfall, but there is a lovely swimming pool fed by river water to the left upon entering the reserve, so bring your bathing suit and a towel. Enter the gate to the left of the main entrance to reach the pool. The refuge has a tour called Canopy Adventure, which can take you flying through the treetops and over the waterfall on zip lines strung between platforms high in trees. Most visitors are happy simply to explore the trails that loop through the lush forest past the waterfall and over a small suspension bridge that spans a rocky stream.
, 0211, Panama507-983–6547Sight Details
Rate Includes: $5, guided hike $65, Daily 8–5 -
7. The Panama Canal
Nautical Site/LighthouseThe most interesting spot for viewing the Panama Canal is the visitor center at the Miraflores Locks.North of Miraflores the road to Gamboa heads inland but still passes a couple of spots with canal vistas, namely the Pedro Miguel Locks and the one-way bridge over the Chagres River. The bridge (and Gamboa in general) offers front-row views of the big ships as they pass though the canal. The Panama Canal Railway train to Colón continues north from Gamboa past other vantage points, which is much of that trip's draw. Two other spots with impressive views are the monument erected by the country's Chinese community on the Bridge of the Americas' western side, and the Esclusas de Gatún (Gatún Locks), 10 km (6 miles) south of Colón. Near Colón, the Panama Canal Expansion Visitor Center offers views of construction on the expanded canal (as long as that work continues) and will likely remain open after the new section is finished. But nothing matches the experience of getting out onto the water, which can be done on a canal transit tour or on a nature tour or fishing trip on Gatún Lake.
, Panama -
8. Agua Clara Visitor Center
Not far from the Gatún locks, this visitor center offers the best view of the newly completed Panama Canal expansion, which allows a new generation of larger, so-called post-Panamax ships to traverse the canal. A video presentation provides an introduction to the canal's history and expansion, but the open-air observation area is the most interesting part, since it offers hilltop views of the project. The facility has a playground and gift shop, as well as a pleasant open-air restaurant operated by Panama City's El Panamá hotel. The restaurant, which is open for lunch daily noon–4 (call 507/215–9927 for reservations) offers great views of Gatún Lake.
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9. Aligandi
Town/VillageA short trip to the west of Achutupo is the island community of Aligandi, which played an important role in the Guna revolt of 1925. There is a small museum and cultural center focusing on the Guna Revolution. You'll see the Guna flag displayed here, as well as a statue of the local revolutionary Simral Colman, one of the architects of the autonomous Guna Indigenous Preserve.
Achutupo, Panama -
10. APROVACA
GardenOrchid enthusiasts will want to check out this small botanical garden run by a local organization dedicated to orchids. They have more than 100 native species, as well as ornamental and medicinal plants. The best time to visit is January to May, when most of the orchids are in bloom.
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11. Area Bancária
Narrow streets shaded by leafy tropical trees make the city's financial district a pleasant area to explore, though the trees are being cut to make room for more skyscrapers. Together with El Cangrejo, which lies across Vía España from it, the Area Bancária holds a critical mass of hotels and restaurants. You'll find two of the city's highest concentrations of bars and restaurants in El Cangrejo and the area around Calle 48 (Calle Uruguay), between Calle 50 (Nicanor de Obarrio) and Avenida Balboa.
Between Vía España and Calle 50, Panama City, Panamá, Panama -
12. Autoridad de Tourismo Panama
Visitor CenterThe local office of the Panamanian Tourism Authority, housed in a large Caribbean-style building on the water, can supply you with all the standard info about Bocas and Panama.
Calle 1, Bocas del Toro, Panama507-757–9642Sight Details
Rate Includes: Daily 9:30–3:30 -
13. Baha'i House of Worship
Religious Building/Site/ShrinePerched atop a forested hill 11 km (7 miles) north of the city is Baha'i House of Worship, one of the world's seven Baha'i temples (an eighth is under construction in Santiago de Chile). The Baha'i believe that all the world's religions are separate manifestations of a single religious process, which culminated with the appearance of their founder, Bahà'u'llàh, who preached about a new global society. Most Baha'i temples are in Asia. Panama's temple is simple but also quite lovely, with a white dome surrounded by tropical foliage (it resembles a giant egg). It was designed by the British architect Peter Tillotson. It is open to everyone for prayer, meditation, and subdued exploring. Men should wear long pants, and women long pants or long skirts.
Transístmica, near Centro Comercial Milla Ocho, , Panama507-231–1191Sight Details
Rate Includes: Free, Daily 9–6 -
14. Bahia Honda
Body Of Water/WaterfallAbout 20 Ngöbe homes are scattered around Bahia Honda, and a group of indigenous families runs a rustic restaurant about five to 10 minutes by boat from the Red Frog dock. The restaurant is administered mostly by the women of Bahia Honda. Hiking and boating tours, organized through La Loma Jungle Lodge or directly with local guide Rutilio Milton (call one day in advance to arrange the tour), include exploration of a cave with bats clinging to the stalactite-laden ceiling. The trip up the creek to get there is as spectacular as the cave itself, with plenty of opportunities to see sloths, monkeys, cayman, birds, and the occasional snake. The adventure also includes a simple lunch, a weaving demonstration, and a chance to purchase handicrafts such as chácaras (colorful woven jute bags).
, Panama507-6592–5162-restaurantSight Details
Rate Includes: Tour including transport from Bocas $25; with lunch $30 -
15. Bajo Mono Road
TrailThe road, near San Ramón, leads to the trailhead for the Sendero Los Quetzales, which winds its way through the forest between Cerro Punta and Boquete. Start that hike in Cerro Punta, though; it's all uphill from Boquete. Head to Bajo Mono to look for quetzals and hundreds of other bird species; the best area for bird-watching is the beginning of the Sendero Los Quetzales, above the Alto Chiquero ranger station. Two other good hiking trails head off of the Bajo Mono Road: the Sendero Culebra, on the right 1½ km (1 mile) up the road to Alto Chiquero, and Pipeline Road, a gravel track on the left that leads to a canyon and waterfall.
, PanamaSight Details
Rate Includes: $3 to access Pipeline Road. -
16. Balboa
BalboaThe heart of the former Canal Zone is quite a switch from the rest of Panama City, with its wide tree-shaded lawns and stately old buildings. It sometimes feels like a bit of a ghost town, especially after you spend time on the busy streets of Panama City proper, but it's a peaceful area with lots of greenery. You may spot toucans, or agoutis (large jungle rodents) on the slopes of Ancon Hill, or near the Panama Canal Administration Building. The Friday's restaurant next to the Country Inn & Suites Panama Canal has a front-row view of the canal and Bridge of the Americas.
Av. Arnulfo Arias and Av. Amador, Panama City, Panamá, Panama -
17. Boca del Drago
As the best beach on the island, Boca del Drago is part of a tiny fishing community in the northwest corner that overlooks the mainland. The water at the coconut palm–lined beach is usually calm, which makes for good swimming and snorkeling. It's a popular destination for boat tours and makes for the quintessential photo of orange starfish beaming beneath clear, shallow waters. There are several food vendors and the small Yarisnori restaurant on the beach serves decent seafood with plenty of cold beer. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking.
Isla Colón, Bocas del Toro, Panama -
18. Bocas Butterfly Garden
Nature Preserve/Wildlife RefugeA few minutes west of town by boat is the Bocas Butterfly Garden, where native butterfly species inhabit a screened flyway and a trail leads through a small forest reserve.
Macca Hill, Bocas del Toro, Panama507-757–9008Sight Details
Rate Includes: $5, Mon.–Sat. 9–3, Sun. 9–noon -
19. Café Ruiz
Farm/RanchThe Ruiz family has been growing coffee in Boquete since the late 1800s, and their coffee-roasting and packaging plant is just south of Mi Jardín Es Su Jardín. A full three-hour tour visits the family farm and processing plant in the mountains above town. Because it has plenty of trees and uses few chemicals, the farm is a good place to see birds. Do the tour in the morning between October and May, during harvest. Reserve a tour by phone or via the website.
Av. Central, ½ km (¼ mile) south of park, on right, , Panama507-6672–3786Sight Details
Rate Includes: Tour $30, Mon.–Sat. 8–6; tours at 9 and 1 -
20. Caldera
Half an hour south of Boquete is the small village of Caldera, known for its hot springs (Los Pazos) and pre-Columbian petroglyphs. Los Pazos is next to the Caldera River, at the end of a rough road on the right after town, which requires 4WD. Before the turnoff for Los Pozos is the Piedra Pintada (Painted Rock), behind the Jardín La Fortuna, a large boulder with pre-Columbian petroglyphs scrawled into its side. Both sites can be visited on a tour offered by Boquete's bird-watching and hiking guides.
Boquete, Chiriquí, Panama
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