Santa Ana, Cerro Ancón, and Balboa

For the better part of the 20th century, the area to the west of Casco Viejo held the border between the American Canal Zone and Panama City proper, and it continues to be an area of stark contrasts. The busy Avenida de Los Mártires (which separates the neighborhoods of El Chorrillo and Santa Ana from Cerro Ancón (Ancón Hill) was once lined with a chain-link fence, and the martyrs it was named for were Panamanian students killed during demonstrations against American control of the zone in 1964. To the west of that busy avenue, which leads to the Bridge of the Americas and the other side of the canal, rises the verdure and stately buildings of the former Canal Zone, whereas the area to the east of it is dominated by slums. Aside from Casco Viejo, the only areas to the east of that avenue that are worth visiting are Santa Ana's Avenida Central pedestrian mall and the area around Plaza Cinco de Mayo, at the pedestrian mall's northern end. A few blocks to the east of Plaza Cinco de Mayo is the Museo Afroantillano, but since it's in a rather sketchy neighborhood you may want to take a taxi there. Another option is to cross the Avenida de los Mártires near Plaza Cinco de Mayo, just south of the Palacio Legislativo, and explore the eastern side of Cerro Ancón, where you'll find the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, a block to your left, and the offices of the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute perched on a ridge to your right. Mi Pueblito is several blocks south of the Museo de Arte—consider taking a taxi there. Also cab it to Balboa, which lies to the west of Cerro Ancón, about a mile over the hill from the Museo de Arte. There you'll want to be sure to visit the Edificio de la Administración del Canal (Panama Canal Administration Building), which overlooks Balboa from a ridge.