To the east of Cartí Suitupo is the island community of Río Sidra, which is a good place to visit if you want to experience how the Guna live. Several sparsely populated islands, which are farther out, have lodges on them. To get here, lodges pick up guests in Cartí and El Porvenir.
Wichub Huala. This tiny island, just south of El Porvenir, is home to a crowded Guna village with a mixture of thatch-roof huts and cement buildings that are separated by narrow sand paths. Papaya and breadfruit trees grow in back patios, dugout canoes crowd the shore, and children play in the sandy streets. Expect to encounter a number of women trying to sell you molas and other handicrafts as you explore, because this is one of the village's main sources of income. Wichub Huala, El Porvenir.
Río Masargandi. The Río Masargandi, a small river that flows out of the mountains near Río Sidra, provides access to the rain forest and a 30-foot waterfall. Local lodges offer half-day trips to the mainland for an additional charge. Excursions to see wildlife are best done early in the morning, but slather yourself with insect repellent.
Río Sidra, Panama