Eastern Panama Places

El Porvenir

The small island of El Porvenir, on the western end of Kuna Yala, is the most popular gateway into the indigenous territory, as it lies near a dozen other isles scattered around a deep bay. It is the official capital of Kuna Yala, though the indigenous government is decentralized and meets on other islands. El Porvenir is practically uninhabited but has a police station, government offices, and an airstrip (no airport). Daily flights land here around 6:30 am, when representatives of lodges on nearby islands await guests. The island also has a rudimentary hotel, a decent beach, and a small museum, but for most travelers it is simply a place to get on and off the plane.

Several islands near El Porvenir have crowded Kuna villages that are interesting places to visit, but the rudimentary hotels on them are the equivalent of backpackers' hostels. Kuna communities have neither sewage systems nor garbage collection, so the water around them is unsafe for swimming. A short boat trip beyond them takes you to uninhabited, white-sand cays shaded by coconut palms that are the area's big attractions. Those idyllic isles hold superb snorkeling, and two of them have rustic lodges that are the area's best options. This part of Kuna Yala has the highest concentration of islands, and receives more visitors than any other area, including seasonal visits by cruise ships. The people on these islands have seen a lot of tourists, and they consequently tend to greet you with the Kuna equivalent of "Come, buy my molas," or by setting their kids up for a $1 photo—the favorite pose is with a parakeet on their head. Don't be offended: it's always good-natured, and they truly need the money. The most popular destinations in Kuna Yala are the uninhabited or sparsely inhabited islands to the east of the bay, which are perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and lounging. Achutupu, or Dog Island, is the most popular and picturesque of these palm-laden paradises, but there are several other islands near Achutupu that cost $1 for a visit, such as Isla Pelícano, with similar bleached beaches and coral reefs offshore but fewer visitors.