Campechano families come here to enjoy a light supper, perhaps a delicious sandwich claveteado of honey-and-clove-spiked ham, along with a typical drink like agua de chaya, a mixture of pineapple water and chaya (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach). Cenaduría Portales opens at 6 pm, but most people arrive between 8 and midnight. The dining area is a wide colonial veranda with marble flooring and tables decked out in plastic tablecloths. No alcohol is served, and you simply mark your choices on the paper menu: for tacos, "m" means maíz, or corn; for tortillas, "h" stands for harina, or flour. On weekends, try the tamal torteado, a tamale with beans, tomato sauce, turkey, and pork wrapped in banana leaves—although not listed on the menu, it's available on request.
Calle 10 No. 86, at Portales San Francisco, 8 blocks northeast of Parque Principal, Campeche City, Campeche, 24040, Mexico