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Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as Progreso, Río Lagartos, and Celestún, tend to serve fresh, s
Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as
Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetar
Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as Progreso, Río Lagartos, and Celestún, tend to serve fresh, simply prepared seafood. The regional cuisine of Campeche is renowned throughout Mexico. Specialties include fish and shellfish stews, cream soups, shrimp cocktail, squid and octopus, and panuchos (chubby rounds of fried cornmeal covered with refried beans and topped with onion and shredded turkey or chicken).
Mexicans generally eat lunch in the afternoon—certainly not before 2. If you want to eat at noon, call ahead to verify hours. In Mérida the locals make a real event of late dinners, especially in summer. Casual (but neat) dress is acceptable at all restaurants. Avoid wearing shorts or casual sandals in the more expensive places, and anywhere at all—especially in the evening—if you don't want to look like a tourist. Although food servers at most local restaurants are kind and hospitable, they don’t always show it like they do in the States. Be patient and realize that, for many, the language barrier may cause them to be more reserved but not necessarily unfriendly. It's common practice for restaurants to include gratuity and tax in the total bill, so double-check your bill before adding a tip.
This open restaurant under a giant palapa roof is an inviting spot for lunch or an early dinner (it closes at 7 pm). Though you'll find the same Yucatecan dishes here as elsewhere—pollo pibil, lime soup—the preparation is excellent and portions are generous. Best of all is the poc chuc—little bites of pork marinated in sour orange, garlic, and chiles and grilled over charcoal. (There is also a Mérida location if you don't want to make the trip to the original one.)
If there were a "Best Pizza in Mexico" contest, we’d nominate this restored colonial gem a couple of blocks north of the main square. Lots of reds and yellows brighten the interior, and the outdoor patio overlooking Parque de la Candelaria becomes prime real estate on beautiful evenings. With 30 years in the restaurant business, most of them spent back in Italy, the owners here know pizza. They whip up 11 varieties, as well as sweet and salted focaccia and enormous calzones. A selection of Italian wines rounds out the offerings. Casa Italia opens at 7—come early if you want to snag a patio table.
The homemade ice cream and sorbet at El Colón have been keeping locals cool since 1907. Served in a pyramid-shape scoop, the tropical fruit flavors (like chico zapote, a brown fruit native to Mexico that tastes a little like cinnamon and comes from a tree used in chewing-gum production) are particularly refreshing. The shop also sells cookies and fresh candies—the meringues are exceptional. The tables inside are under whirling fans that make it a comfortable spot on a hot afternoon.
An outpost of lively Eladio's in Mérida, this bar and restaurant is extremely popular with cruise-ship passengers who disembark in Progreso. You can sample typical Yucatecan dishes like longaniza asada (baked sausage) and pollo pibil (citrus-pickled chicken) while seated beneath a tall palapa on the beach. As you’d expect, fresh seafood dishes are also on the menu. Tasty appetizers are free with your drinks, and there are plenty to choose from. Live music every afternoon except Tuesday adds to the party atmosphere.
Av. Malecón at Calle 80, Progreso, Yucatán, 97320, Mexico
The wonderful smells of fresh-baked bread and pizza waft from this small corner establishment between the market and the main square, where scenes of Old Italy and the Yucatán adorn the bright yellow walls. It’s pretty informal here: patrons pull padded folding chairs up to yellow-tile tables, or take their orders to go. Pizza is the name of the game here, but tortas and pastas are also served.
This little gelato shop in the heart of the historic center has significantly raised the caliber of Mérida's ice-cream offerings. The flavors on any given day vary, but you can typically expect somewhere between five and ten sorbets and the same number of gelato flavors. You can count on some classics, like chocolate and chocolate chip, but most of the flavors are inspired by the region, its cuisine, and its produce—chocolate with chiles, flan, pineapple with chaya, and lemon with rosemary are a few of the unexpected, though always delicious, options you might find. If it's not too hot, quickly make your way to Parque Santa Lucia (a block away) and enjoy your sorbet or gelato there.
Residents of Izamal have strong opinions on which restaurants make the best panuchos, salbutes, papadzules, and other local specialities, but Restaurante Muul is on many short lists. The atmosphere is no-frills, though the location is convenient, right on the main plaza just steps from the ex-convent.
This beautifully designed restaurant is one of Mérida's most upscale eateries, serving house favorites like the tuna steak with black pepper crust or the Angus beef served with a side of rosemary potatoes. A glass wall separates indoor and outdoor dining rooms; although less formal, the outdoor patio is surrounded by lush vegetation, helping you forget that you are on a bustling avenue. Although steaks are the specialty here, you'll also find plenty of delicious tapas and salads. In fact, the starters alone make Trotter's worth visiting; try the octopus carpaccio or foie gras.
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