Vast, lovely, green, and mysterious Calakmul may not stay a secret for much longer. You won't see any tour buses in the parking lot, and on an average day, site employees and laborers still outnumber the visitors traipsing along the moss-tinged dirt paths that snake through the jungle. But things are changing. The nearest town, Xpujil, already has Internet service and a handful of restaurants and hotels. So if you're looking for untrammeled Mexican wilderness, don't put off a trip here any longer.
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