A leisurely stint here in the sun, watching ships unloading their cargo, is what Veracruz is all about. This family restaurant was so popular it split off into side-by-side establishments run by two brothers. The menus are nearly identical, both serving renowned traditional lechero. The milk is flamboyantly poured from silver jugs at a great height by a server. Visit the Gran Café closest to Hotel Emporio for classic picadas y gordas (puffy, deep-fried tortillas with beans, onion, mole, and cheese). Try for a sidewalk table under the arches, if you can withstand the competing marimbas and the appeals of women selling crafts.
Paseo de Malecón between Hawaii Hotel and Hotel Emporio, Veracruz, Veracruz, 91700, Mexico