San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland Places

Morelia

Morelia is Michoacán state's capital—its long, wide boulevards and earth-tone colonial mansions earned it its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1541 as Valladolid (after the Spanish city), it changed its name in 1828 to honor José María Morelos, the town's most famous son. The legendary mule skinner-turned-priest led the battle for independence after its early leaders were executed in 1811.

Morelia's streets are almost always clogged with traffic, so it's best to see the city on foot—an easy task given the proximity of most sites to the zócalo. The city's well-preserved colonial buildings are today's offices, museums, shops, restaurants, and hotels. The magnificent 17th-century aqueduct, with its 253 arches, still carries water into the city. Recently, the city has become a hotbed for international students.

Finding your way around Morelia can be a a challenge, as street names change frequently, especially on either side of Avenida Madero, the city's main east-west artery. Buses run the length of Avenida Madero.

Morelia is always more fun if you start with a trip on the Tranvía Kuanari that departs every half hour Tuesday through Sunday from the Plaza de San Francisco. They offer two daytime tours and an evening tour,"Las Leyendas," to show the city lighted up at night. Tickets are $4, $5.50, and $7, respectively. The Tranvía de la Calle Real departs from the Plaza Valladolid Wednesday through Sunday. It includes a visit to the Museo del Dulce and a demonstration of how the city's delicious confections are made. Tickets are $4.50.

Willy Wonka Wishes

Morelia has the delicious distinction of being the candy capital of Mexico. So popular are the sweets that the city has an entire market devoted to candy, called the Mercado de Dulces.