When he wasn't living in his jungle hut, Edward James stayed in town (a 10-minute drive away) in a whimsical house that feels like an extension of the garden structures at Las Pozas—except that it has walls. The house, El Castillo (the Castle), is now a quirky inn run by the granddaughter of James's boon companion and chief designer-builder, Plutarco Gastelum. Rooms are adorned with simple wooden furnishings; the best rooms have huge Gothic windows and panoramic mountain
views. You can arrange to have meals here, although there are lately more dining options in Xilitla, which has grown to 15,000 souls, than in previous years.