Car Travel

It is absolutely essential that you carry Mexican auto insurance for liability, even if you have full coverage for collision, damages, and theft. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could well be jailed -- whether it was your fault or not -- unless you have insurance.

Arriving & Departing

PV is about 1,900 km (1,200 mi) south of Nogales, Arizona, at the U.S.-Mexico border, 354 km (220 mi) west of Guadalajara, 242 km (150 mi) north of Manzanillo, and 167 km (104 mi) south of Tepic.

If you enter Mexico with a car you must leave with it. Technically this rule applies even if your car gets totaled or dies some other horrible death, rendering it undrivable. In recent years the high rate of U.S. vehicles being sold illegally in Mexico has caused the Mexican government to enact stringent regulations on bringing cars into the country.

You must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a passport or a certified birth certificate; a major credit card (American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, or Visa); and a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit-card owner must be one and the same -- that is, if your spouse's name is on the title or registration of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed, leased, rental, or company cars you must bring a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company. When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay the $27 charge on your credit card, you'll receive a car permit and a sticker to put on your vehicle, all valid for up to six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border prior to their expiration date; otherwise you could incur high fines or even be barred from entering Mexico if you try to visit again. You can purchase insurance near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side.

The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card or visa, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face.

If you bring the car into the country you must be in the vehicle at all times when it is driven. You cannot lend it to another person.

Getting Around

Driving in PV can be unpleasant, but the main problem is parking. From December through April -- peak season -- traffic clogs the narrow streets, and negotiating the steep hills in Old Vallarta (sometimes you have to drive in reverse to let another car pass) can be frightening. Avoid rush hour (7-9 AM and 6-8 PM) and when schools let out (2-3 PM). It's helpful to travel with a companion and a good map. Always lock your car, and never leave valuable items in the body of the car. The trunk is generally safe, although any thief can crack one open if he chooses.

Taxis and buses are the way to get around downtown; rent a car for days when you'll be sightseeing outside the city center. The trick to getting a good deal on a rental car is to book it before arriving in PV through Hertz and other international companies.

To get to the Costalegre from Puerto Vallarta, simply head south on Highway 200. It's about 2 ¼ hours to El Careyes Resort, a little more than halfway to Barra de Navidad; the latter is about 3 1/2 to 4 hours to the south.

If you're heading to the Costalegre from Guadalajara, the most direct route is toll route 54D south; 2 1/2 hours from the city you'll reach Colima; coastal Barra de Navidad is an additional hour and 45 minutes from there.

Emergency Services

To help motorists on major highways, the Mexican Tourism Ministry operates a fleet of more than 250 pickup trucks, known as the Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels, easily reachable by phone throughout Mexico by simply dialing 078. (If this number doesn't work -- occasionally the case -- call 01800/903-9200 toll-free.) The bilingual drivers provide mechanical help, first aid, radio-telephone communication, basic supplies and small parts, towing, tourist information, and protection. Services are free, and spare parts, fuel, and lubricants are provided at cost. Tips are always appreciated (figure a minimum of $5-$10 for big jobs and $3-$5 for minor repairs). The Green Angels patrol fixed sections of the major highways twice daily 8-8 (usually later on holiday weekends). If you break down, pull off the road as far as possible, lift the hood of your car, hail a passing vehicle, and ask the driver to notify the patrol. Most drivers will be quite helpful.

Contacts

Angeles Verdes (078; 01800/903-9200 toll-free in Mexico).

Gasoline

Pemex (the government petroleum monopoly) franchises all of Mexico's gas stations, which you'll find at most junctions and in cities and towns. Gas is measured in liters, and stations usually don't accept U.S. or Canadian credit cards or dollars, but this is beginning to change. Fuel prices tend to increase the farther you get from Mexico City and areas near the U.S. border. Overall, prices are slightly to moderately higher than in the United States. Premium unleaded gas (called premium, the red pump) and regular unleaded gas (magna, the green pump) are available nationwide, but it's still best to fill up whenever you can and don't let your tank get below half full. Fuel quality is generally lower than that in the United States and Europe, but it has improved enough so that your car will run acceptably.

Gas-station attendants pump the gas for you and may also wash your windshield and check your oil and tire air pressure. A 5- or 10-peso tip is customary, depending on the number of services rendered (including simply pumping the gas). Keep a close eye on the gas meter to make sure the attendant is starting it at "0" and that you're charged the correct price.

Insurance

You must carry Mexican auto insurance, at the very least liability as well coverage against physical damage to the vehicle and theft at your discretion, depending on what, if anything, your own auto insurance (or credit card, if you use it to rent a car) includes. It's sold by the day ($10 per day and up), and if your trip is shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a prorated refund for the unused time upon application after you exit the country. Mexican Insurance Professionals and Instant Mexico Auto Insurance are two of many online outfits that allow you to buy the insurance beforehand, but it's not absolutely necessary; if you're approaching the border at almost any U.S.-Mexico crossing, you'll be overwhelmed by essentially similar companies where you can buy the insurance on the spot. Sanborn's is a reliable company and has offices in almost every border town. If you're renting a car, there's no need to buy separate insurance; it will all be dealt with by the rental company.

Contacts

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (800/345-4701 in U.S. and Canada). Mexico Insurance Professionals (888/467-4639; 928/214-9750 in U.S.). Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (800/222-0158 in U.S. and Canada. www.sanbornsinsurance.com).

Parking

A circle with a diagonal line superimposed on the letter E (for estacionamiento) means "no parking." Illegally parked cars are usually either towed or have wheel blocks placed on the tires, which can require a trip to the traffic-police headquarters for payment of a fine. When in doubt, park in a lot rather than on the street; your car will probably be safer there anyway. Lots are plentiful, and fees are reasonable -- as little as $4 for a whole day up to $1 or more an hour, depending on where you are. Sometimes you park your own car; more often, though, you hand the keys over to an attendant.

Road Conditions

There are several well-kept toll roads heading into Mexico and out of major cities like Guadalajara -- most of them four lanes wide. However, these carreteras (major highways) don't go too far into the countryside. (Cuota means toll road; libre means no toll, and such roads are often two lanes and not as smooth.) Some excellent roads have opened in the past decade or so, making car travel safer and faster. Those leading to, or in, Nayarit and Jalisco include highways connecting Nogales and Mazatlán; Guadalajara and Tepic; and Mexico City, Morelia, and Guadalajara. However, tolls as high as $40 one-way can make using these thoroughfares expensive.

In rural areas roads are sometimes poor; other times the two-lane, blacktop roads are perfectly fine and enjoyable to drive. Be extra cautious during the rainy season, when rock slides and potholes are a problem. Watch out for animals, especially untethered horses, cattle, and dogs, and to dangerous, unrailed curves. Topes (speed bumps) are ubiquitous; slow down when approaching a village and look for signs saying topes or vibradores. Police officers often issue tickets to those speeding through populated areas.

Generally, driving times are longer than for comparable distances in the United States. Allow extra time for unforeseen occurrences as well as for traffic, particularly truck traffic.

Road Maps

AAA publishes national road maps for Mexico, and Guía Roji publishes current city, regional, and national road maps. The latter are available in bookstores (or the book section in Sanborns), papelerís, and big supermarket chains for under $10. Maps of Mexico are also increasingly available in the U.S. and Canada and online at Web sites like www.mexicomaps.com. Gas stations generally don't sell maps.

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you may receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. It really is a good idea to read it to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your country. For instance: if an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in daytime, slow down: it could mean trouble ahead; when approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way; right on red is not allowed; one-way traffic is indicated by an arrow; two-way, by a double-pointed arrow. (Other road signs follow the widespread system of international symbols.)

On the highway, using your left turn signal to turn left can be extremely dangerous. Mexican drivers -- especially truck drivers with big rigs that block the view of the road ahead -- use their left turn signal on the highway to signal the car behind that it's safe to pass. Conversely they rarely use their signal to actually make a turn. Foreigners signaling a left turn off the highway into a driveway or onto a side road have been killed by cars or trucks behind that mistook their turn signal for a signal to pass. To turn left from a highway when cars are behind you, it's best to pull over to the right and make the left turn when no cars are approaching, to avoid disaster.

Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 mph and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums on the highway. A few of the toll roads allow 110 kph (68 mph). However, speed limits can change from curve to curve, so watch the signs carefully. In cities and small towns, observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph).

Seat belts are required by law throughout Mexico.

Drunk driving laws are fairly harsh in Mexico, and if you're caught you may go to jail immediately. It's difficult to say what the blood-alcohol limit is since everyone we asked gave a different answer, which means each case is probably handled in a discretionary manner. The best way to avoid any problems is to simply not drink and drive.

If you're stopped for speeding, the officer is supposed to take your license and hold it until you pay the fine at the local police station. But the officer will usually prefer a mordida (small bribe). Just take out a couple hundred pesos, hold it out inquiringly (yet discreetly), and see if the problem goes away. Conversely, a few cops might resent the offer of a bribe, but it's still common practice.

If you decide to dispute a charge that seems preposterous, do so with a smile, and tell the officer that you would like to talk to the police captain when you get to the station. The officer usually will let you go rather than go to the station.

Safety on the Road

Never drive at night in remote and rural areas. Bandidos are one concern, but so are potholes, free-roaming animals, cars with no working lights, road-hogging trucks, and difficulty in getting assistance. It's best to use toll roads whenever possible; although costly, they're much safer.

Driving in Mexico can be nerve-wracking for novices, with people zigzagging in and out of lanes. Most drivers pay attention to signals and safety rules, but be vigilant. Drunk driving skyrockets on holiday weekends.

A police officer may pull you over for something you didn't do; unfortunately a common scam. If you're pulled over for any reason, be polite -- displays of anger will only make matters worse. Although efforts are being made to fight corruption, it's still a fact of life in Mexico, and for many people, it's worth the $10 to $100 it costs to get their license back to be on their way quickly. (The amount requested varies depending on what the officer assumes you can pay -- the year, make, and model of the car you drive being one determining factor.) Others persevere long enough to be let off with a warning only. The key to success, in this case, is a combination of calm and patience.