The mountainous backdrop of the beaches in Puerto Vallarta and to the north makes them beautiful—even though the water isn't translucent and the sand is grainy and brown, rather than powdery white. South of PV the mountains recede from the coast. The lovely yet lonely beaches and bays are fringed by dry tropical thorn forest with a wonderful variety of plant species. Several species of whales cruise down in winter and turtles spawn on the beaches. Throughout the region from southern Nayarit to the Costalegre, long, flat beaches invite walking and reefs and offshore breaks draw surfers; the omnipresent seafood shanties are perfect vantage points for sunsets on the sand.