A shabby-chic handful of wooden tables dressed in bright paisley cloths, Zandunga is the quintessential corner café. It fills up with local families who come to sample hearty and simple dishes from the istmo, the southeastern part of the state around the town of Tehuantepec. The estofado, a savory beef stew, is recommended; start off with the sampler plate of typical regional snacks, which comes with totopos (crunchy tortillas that originated on the isthmus). Daily specials may include a mole for good measure. Wash it all down with a tangy tea made from hibiscus blossoms.