Your host, poet Lety Ricárdez, lets you know immediately that this mansion in the center of town, furnished with a memorable collection of objets d'art, is "your home." Pass through a wrought-iron gate to reach two of the suites, then climb a twisting stone staircase to find the other two. Ask for the Bella Epoca suite, where everything seems to come in threes: three rooms with three sets of French doors that lead to three balconies—there are even three crystal chandeliers. The bath has a deep whirlpool tub and towels tied with silk ribbon. The rooftop dining room and café has views of all the city's landmarks.