Restaurants, cafés, and hip boutiques radiate along and out from La Condesa's main drag, Avenida Michoacán. It's a great place for a break from a sightseeing slog—just relax at a sidewalk table and watch the hip young world go by. Stop to sip coffee and flip through the magazines at Coffee Max (Tamaulipas 72A, at Av. Michoacán, Col. Condesa. 55/5553-9563. Patriotismo). Just across the street, you can also pick up a quick slice of pizza in inventive combinations (such as ham and fig) at Pizza Amore (Michoacán 78, Col. Condesa. 55/5286-5126. Patriotismo). The tacos at El Farolito (Altata 19 at Alfonso Reyes, Col. Condesa. 55/5515-2389. www.taqueriaselfarolito.com. Patriotismo) are also yummy. Try the costras—tacos in which the meat is wrapped in fried cheese before being wrapped in a tortilla. Wash it down with a delicious juice, like the mango or strawberry-coconut, made fresh in the taquería. If you are craving a more substantial meal, try Due Amici (Fernando Montes de Oca 17. 55/5286-4043) for rib-eye steaks, Italian seafood dishes, and great sandwiches.
A snack will fortify you for Avenida Michoacán's other main activity, shopping. The clothing stores often lean toward the trendy; Kulte, for instance, at Atlixco 118, dishes up the latest fads, as does Soho, on Avenida Vicente Suárez between avenidas Michoacán and Tamaulipas. Along the nearby streets you'll find a good mix of temptations—everything from modern furniture to risqué lingerie. As its name (The Open Closet) suggests, the bookstore El Armario Abierto (Agustín Melgar 25, at Pachuca, Col. Condesa. 55/5286-0895. www.elarmarioabierto.com.mx. Chapultepec) gives a rare glimpse of progressive Mexico; it specializes in sexuality-related books, videos, and other resources. El Péndulo (Av. Nuevo León 115, at Av. Vicente Suárez, Col. Condesa. 55/5286-9493. www.pendulo.com. Chilpancingo) acts as a sort of cultural center. The first of what is now a chain of bookstores is stuffed with Spanish-language books and international CDs; classical guitarists and other musicians play on weekends.
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