The famous cervezeria (brewery) went into the restaurant business last year, with this clean, well-lighted upstairs locale overlooking one of the center's busiest pedestrian streets. The concept was to take street food indoors, clean it up, and serve it (still cheap) with a beer. The bacalao (salt cod) tacos are reputed to be a hangover cure. Flat-screen TVs tuned to sports are outsized by the room, and so don't dominate the place, and you can sit in the open air under the retractable roof.
Filomeno Mata 18, at Madero, Mexico City, 06010, Mexico