Lucha Libre in Mexico City

Wrestling is right up there with soccer as a sport that evokes many emotional outbursts, though it doesn't have as much cachet as the latter. It's been around since the mid-1800s, or at least the early 1900s (there is some debate about how and when it began), but it is growing more and more famous with international children's programs and movies like Nacho Libre (2007). Wrestlers wear masks and dress in costumes depicting good or evil (the devil against the angel, for example), and it's usually good who wins after a couple of acrobatic slams and pitches out of the ring. The debate on whether the fights are fixed rages on—and is a heated debate among aficionados. The good guy wrestlers often become folk heroes, appear in comic books and movies, and are role models for young kids. One of the most famous wrestlers was El Santo (The Saint), whose son continues the legacy. Most wrestlers are from the barrios and the sport attracts their compatriots: it's rowdy and loud. Note that both of the arenas where you can catch the lucha are in parts of town where caution is recommended as you come and go. Be sure to arrange for safe transport (hailing down a cab in the street is not recommended), and go with company whenever possible. Matches take place every Friday night at 8:30 at the Arena Mexico (Dr. Lavista between Dr. Carmona and Dr. Lucio, Col. Doctores. 55/5588-0508). Ringside seats fetch $10. Avoid hailing cabs directly outside the arena.

Matches also take place at the Arena Coliseo (Perú 77, Col. Centro. 55/5588-0266), the oldest arena in Mexico, every Tuesday at 7:30 and Sunday at 5.

Detour

El Cuadrilátero (Luis Moya 73, Col. Centro. 55/5521-3060).For true lucha libre fans, this little downtown café, decorated with historic photos from the lucha libre and professional masks, is a real treat. The menu was designed with a luchador's appetite in mind. There are plates named after famous fighters, and the enormous size of the plates actually have attracted some famous fighters. With a little luck, if you pass by, you might run in to some