This small seaside inn is rich in history and low in price. Rooms are plain but comfortable; beds are firm, and the TVs have cable. Exterior halls and stairways are made of romantically creaking wood and surround a sweet-smelling courtyard where dieffenbachias grow to primeval proportions and doves roost in tropical almond trees. The first-floor patio is ringed by such nonaffiliated businesses as a car-rental office and a travel agency. El Shrimp Bucket restaurant provides room service.