Posada La Poza
Camino a La Poza #282, Todos Santos, Baja California Sur 23305, México
West of town, overlooking a bird-filled lagoon that gives way to the Pacific, this is the only Todos Santos property right on the water. The Swiss owners have taken great care to create a property that showcases the local flora, and the results are flawless. The handsome, spacious suites have terra-cotta–color walls, modern furniture, and sumptuous Swiss linens. You'll find a CD player and binoculars on hand, but there aren't any TVs or phones in the rooms. Even if you're not staying, stop by the excellent El Gusto! restaurant (closed Thursday) for spicy tortilla soup, local scallops, organic salads, and an impressive list of Mexican wines.
Ground-floor rooms showcase picturesque garden views, while the upstairs suites offer terrace views of the garden, the lagoon, and the Pacific Ocean. The rooms all boast queen or king-sized beds, as well as individualized décor such as handcrafted furnishings and colorful artworks. Traditional palo de arco pergolas provide shade for terrace hammocks and chaise lounges.
All baths boast roomy shower areas and, in the European style, water closet style toilets. The bathroom in the Honeymoon Suite is larger than some studio apartments, with the addition of double sink basins, a cosmetics table, and an over-sized soak tub.
The saltwater pool area is surrounded on all sides by the hotel’s magnificent garden, and the pool has been contoured to wrap around an enormous palm tree. A soothing waterfall adds to the blissful atmosphere.
A jacuzzi, also saltwater, is set between the pool area and the fitness equipment.
Massages are available in a shaded palm grove, and may also be arranged in one’s room.
A small shaded square is set aside near the pool area for fitness activities, with the primary attractions being a quartet of cardio-focused machines.
The on-site restaurant, El Gusto, is utterly charming, and renowned for its superb fare. Breakfast is served each morning in a charming outdoor patio setting near the entrance, with freshly squeezed mango juice added to the menu during the summer months. The second-story terrace, meanwhile, is utilized for lunch, offering beautiful Pacific Ocean views to accompany delicious menu specialties like smoked tuna flautas and grilled arrachera.
Dinner is available only by prior reservation, and for groups of 10 or more.
Stop by the bar near the kitchen for a cocktail and good conversation, or take advantage of the Mexican beers stocked in each room’s minibar.
Co-owner Juerg Wiesendanger is sanguine about the long, bumpy dirt road that leads from downtown Todos Santos to Posada La Poza’s serene setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean, noting that “good roads bring bad neighbors.” It’s true that the rocky dirt road is part of the charm of staying at this off-the-beaten-path boutique lodging, but guests will definitely need to rent a car if they wish to explore downtown Todos Santos or regional day trip destinations.
Miguel’s (8-minutes by car on Santos Degollado) is famous for its chile rellenos, which a New York Times writer once claimed were the best on the Baja California peninsula. La Casita Tapas & Wine Bar (9-minutes by car on Benito Juárez) has moved around the corner from its original location, but is still considered one of the best restaurants in Todos Santos. La Casita serves steaks and seafood as well as starters and offers a wealth of wine pairing options.
Stop by Shut Up Frank’s (8-minutes by car on Santos Degollado), the locals’ favorite sports bar and burger place, before tackling the dirt road back to Posada La Poza.
WHY WE LIKE IT
Charming owners, chic and comfortable accommodations, an excellent restaurant, gorgeous ocean views…What’s not to like? The most amazing thing about this hotel, however, is its garden. Co-owner Libusche Wiesendanger has not only contributed evocative art to each of the 8 rooms, but has cultivated the most magnificent garden in the area, a lush welter of life that includes a natural lagoon, over 30 varieties of palm trees and 50 types of cactus, and is frequented by more than 100 species of birds.
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