Los Cabos has become one of the world's top golf destinations, thanks to Fonatur, Mexico's government tourism development agency. In 1988 they expanded Los Cabos's appeal beyond sportfishing by opening a 9-hole course in San José. Since then, green fairways now appear like oases in the middle of the desert, with breathtaking holes alongside the Sea of Cortez. Many more have already been slated for construction in the next couple of years.

Some courses in Cabo offer memberships, but most allow nonmembers to play. The exceptions are Querencia, designed by Tom Fazzio, and El Dorado, designed by Jack Nicklaus. These courses, while said to be spectacular, are only open to members and their guests.

About a million gallons of water a day are required to maintain each course, which partially explains why courses charge some of the highest greens fees in the world. The cost usually includes access to the driving range, a golf cart, and bottled water. Some courses offer reduced rates for twilight play (after 3 PM). Greens fees are exorbitant—up to $350 in winter and $220 in summer. Rates given here are for high season, approximately November to May. Most hotels near the courses offer packages and reduced fees. Reservations are essential at all courses unless noted otherwise.

San José del Cabo

Although most of the area's best golf courses are in the Corridor, Los Cabos' original course, the renamed Mayan Resorts Golf Los Cabos (Hwy. 1, Km 31.5. 624/142-0900) has wide fairways and few obstacles or slopes. It's good for beginners or as a warm-up. The well-maintained 9-hole course is lined with residential properties (broken windows are not unusual). Some holes have nice ocean views, and there's a large lake near the bottom. It costs $116 to play 9 holes; twilight rate is $69 including cart rental.

The Corridor

On the inland side of the Corridor, Cabo del Sol Desert Course (Hwy. 1, Km 10.3. 624/145-8200 or 800/386-2405. www.cabodelsol.com) is said to be "user-friendly": the longest hole is 625 yards, par 5. The course was designed by Tom Weiskopf. Special rates are available if you play both this and the Cabo del Sol Ocean Course. Greens fees start at $165 for low-season play and twilight times, and $220 for high season during the day.

Cabo del Sol Ocean Course (Hwy. 1, Km 10.3. 624/145-8200 or 800/386-2405. www.cabodelsol.com) has been included in Golf Digest's ''Top 100 Courses in the World." According to designer Jack Nicklaus, it has the best three finishing holes in the world. On the par-3 17th hole, you drive over an ocean inlet with waves crashing below. The 18th hole is a mirror image of the 18th at Pebble Beach, California. Five holes are seaside. It was the site of the 1998 Senior Slam. Greens fees start at $170 for twilight times, $250 during low season, and $350 for high season.

The challenging Cabo Real Golf Course (Hwy. 1, Km 19.5. 624/144-0040 or 877/795-8727. www.caboreal.com), designed by Robert Trent Jones II, has straight and narrow fairways, difficult slopes, and strategically placed bunkers. The first six holes are in mountainous terrain, working their way up to 500 feet above sea level. Recovering from mistakes here can be quite difficult. Three holes are oceanfront. The course played host to the PGA Senior Slam in 1996 and 1999. Greens fees for 18 holes are $260 for weekdays, $280 for weekends, and $154 at twilight.

The 27-hole, Jack Nicklaus-designed One&Only Palmilla Golf Course (Hwy. 1, Km 7.5. 624/146-7000; 954/809-2726 in U.S.) has wide fairways, gentle slopes, and large, challenging greens. On the 10th hole, you drive from a cliff, with the sea at your back; on the famous par-4 14th, you drive onto an island fairway. One hole borders the Sea of Cortez, and 12 holes have excellent sea views. The Palmilla course was the site of the '97 Senior Slam. It costs $269 to play, and after 1 PM it's $170. You can make reservations up to 60 days in advance.

Which Way to the Gym?

If your hotel or resort doesn't have a gym, a few in Cabo San Lucas allow short-term memberships. Fees average about $8 a day, $25 a week, and $45 a month.

Club Fit (Plaza Nautica, Blvd. Marina. No phone) has excellent facilities, including a pool, free weights, and a variety of exercise machines. The club also has aerobics and yoga classes and a health bar. Hours are weekdays 6 AM-9:30 PM, Saturday 8-8, and Sunday 10-5. The locals work out at Gimnasio Rudos (Av. Cárdenas and Guerrero. 624/143-0077), a basic gym with free weights and machines. There are showers for men but not for women. It's open weekdays 6 AM-10 PM, Saturday 6 AM-8 PM.

Cabo San Lucas

Most of the courses in Los Cabos are attached to the large resorts in the Corridor. Cabo San Lucas Country Club (Hwy. 1, Km 3.6. 624/143-4653. 888/328-8501. www.golfincabo.com), the lone course in Cabo San Lucias, is renowned for spectacular views of the Sea of Cortez and El Arco—especially from the 18th hole— and has seven man-made lakes. The course was designed by Ron Dye and the signature hole is the par-5 7th. Eighteen holes are $186, with a twilight rate of $105.