An exciting variety of diving is available in Cabo San Lucas. Fairly tame snorkeling can be enjoyed at Lover's Beach, along Land's End Rocks, or on one of the perhaps half dozen catamarans that take tourists down the coast to the sanctuary at Bahía Santa María or Chileno Bay. More-adventurous divers can swim with the giant manta rays way off the coast at Gordo Banks,or even visit the distant Revillagigedo Islands hundreds of miles south of the Baja Peninsula, where you can frolic with manta rays and whale sharks (some of the largest fish in the ocean). One of the pioneers of diving in the area was none other than Jacques Cousteau, who discovered and explored the Sand Falls. Only 150 feet off Playa del Amor,this underwater sand river continually cascades off a steep drop-off into a deep abyss. In fact, this is one of several excellent diving or snorkeling spots close to the Cabo San Lucas shore. There are also fantastic coral reef sites in the Corridor and north of San José.
All operators are based in Cabo San Lucas and offer essentially the same dives, at comparable prices. Generally, diving costs about $50 for one tank and $75 for two, including transportation. Equipment rental, dives in the Corridor, and night dives typically cost extra. Full-day trips to Gordo Banks and Cabo Pulmo cost about $150, including transportation, food, equipment, and two tanks. Most operators offer two- to four-day package deals.
Most dive shops have courses for noncertified divers; some may be offered through your hotel. Newly certified divers may go on local dives no more than 30 to 40 feet deep. Divers must show their C-card (diver certification card) before going on dives with reputable shops. Many operators offer widely recognized Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) certification courses, which usually take place in hotel pools for the first couple of lessons.
The oldest (25 years in Cabo San Lucas) and most complete dive shop in Los Cabos area is Amigos del Mar (Blvd. Marina, Cabo San Lucas. near harbor fishing docks. 624/143-0505; 800/344-3349; 513/898-0547 in U.S. www.amigosdelmar.com). Their dive boats range from a 22-foot panga to a 25-foot runabout and 33- and 36-foot dive catamarans. The staff is courteous and knowledgeable, and all the guides speak English.
Cabo Acuadeportes (In front of now-closed Hotel Hacienda, Playa Médano, Cabo San Lucas. 624/143-0117.) has boat dives from its shop on Playa Médano in Cabo San Lucas, and boat and shore dives from its shop at Chileno Bay in the Corridor.
Find luxury on the über-comfortable dive boat Solmar V (Solmar Suites Hotel, Blvd. Marina, Cabo San Lucas. 624/143-0022; 310/455-3600 in U.S. www.solmar5.com), which takes nine-day remote adventure diving trips to the islands of Socorro, San Benedicto, and Clarion, as well as to the coral reefs at Cabo Pulmo. There are also five-day trips out of Ensenada, northern Baja. Twelve cabins with private baths serve a maximum of 24 passengers. Prices range from $1,695 to $3,095. This is one of Cabo's top diving experiences, so book well in advance.
At all of the following sites in Bahía San Lucas near El Arco you're likely to see colorful tropical fish traveling confidently in large schools. Yellow angelfish, green and blue parrot fish, red snappers, perfectly camouflaged stonefish, and long, slender needlefish share these waters. Divers regularly encounter stingrays, manta rays, and moray eels. The only problem with this location is the amount of boat traffic. The sound of motors penetrates deep into the water and can slightly mar the experience. The sea-lion colony at Cabo Pulmo makes for a fun dive most of the year—except in summer, when the resident sea lions swim back out to sea. Neptune's Fingers (60-120 feet) is a long rock formation with abundant fish. About 150 feet off Playa del Amor, Pelican Rock (25-100 feet) is a calm, protected spot where you can look down on Sand Falls. The Point (15-80 feet) is a good spot for beginners who aren't ready to get too deep.
The Corridor has four popular diving sites. Bahía Santa Maria (20-60 feet) has water clear enough to see hard and soft corals, octopuses, eels, and many tropical fish. Chileno Reef (10-80 feet) is a protected finger reef 1 km (0.5 mi) from Chileno Bay, with many invertebrates, including starfish, flower urchins, and hydroids. The Blow-Hole (60-100 feet) is known for diverse terrain—massive boulders, rugged tunnels, shallow caverns, and deep rock cuts—which house manta rays, sea turtles, and large schools of amberjacks and grouper. The Shipwreck (40-60 feet), an old Japanese fishing boat, is close to Cabo San Lucas, near the Misiones del Cabo Hotel.
Three very unique diving spots can be found beyond the local area. The best place for tropical fish and rays in the greater Los Cabos area is in the coral-reef system of the marine preserve at Cabo Pulmo (15-130 feet). From November through February you can see the giant mantas, and the water is so clear that visibility can exceed 100 feet in summer. Expert divers head to the Gordo Banks ( 100-130 feet), also known as the Wahoo Banks, which are 13 km (8 mi) off the coast of San José. The currents are too strong for less-experienced divers. This is the spot for hammerhead sharks—not generally aggressive with divers—plus many species of tropical fish and rays, and, if you're lucky, dolphins. Fall is the best time to go. Well off the coast of La Paz (15-130 feet) you may find hammerhead and whale sharks.