A trip toMisión San Javier, 32 km (20 mi) southwest of Loreto, shows Baja at its best. A high-clearance vehicle is useful for the two-hour drive to the mission -- don't try getting here if the dirt and gravel road is muddy. The road climbs past small ranches, palm groves, and the steep cliffs of the Cerro de la Giganta. Marked trails lead off the road to remnants of a small cluster of Indian cave paintings. The mission village is a remote community of some 50 full-time residents, many of whom come outdoors when visitors arrive.

The mission church (circa 1699), which is amid orchards, is built of blocks of gray volcanic rock and topped with domes and bell towers containing three bells from the 18th and 19th centuries. The side stained-glass windows are framed with wood. Inside, a gilded central altar contains a statue of Saint Javier; side altars have statues of Saint Ignacio and the Virgen de los Dolores. Vestments from the 1700s are displayed in a glass cabinet. The church is often locked; ask anyone hanging about to find the person with the keys. Slip a few pesos into the contribution box as a courtesy to the village's inhabitants, who keep the church well maintained. Loreto residents make pilgrimages to the mission for the patron saint's festival, celebrated December 1-3. Although you can drive to San Javier on your own, it helps to have a guide along to lead you to the caves and Indian paintings. Many hotels and tour companies can arrange trips. You can spend the night in a small bungalow at Casa de Ana (613/135-1552 in Loreto; 800/497-3923 in U.S. www.hoteloasis.com) and get a rare view into a small Baja community ($35 per night).