There's always one in every neighborhood: the place all the locals crowd into, leaving everything else deserted. In this case they come for seafood, from wonderfully fresh ceviche de pescado, served as a tostada, to a tender octopus cocktail. For your main course don't even look at the menu—go straight for the huachinango (red snapper), or other catch of the day, served a la leña. This preparation involves coating the fish in butter and heavy spices, wrapping it in foil, and grilling it over an open fire. There's a good tequila selection here, too.
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